Is it ok to put a a normal plug on the end of an external security light?

R

reeveerx

Hi there.

I am just wondering if this is ok to do?

I recently installed a security light and my grandmas house and I drilled straight through the kitchen wall onto the exterior front of the house to install the security pir light. I supplied the light via 2.5mm t&e as it was all I had available (I would have used 1mm but had none available). Anyhow, on the end of the cable in the house, I was going to chase the cable down the wall and into a single socket and spur it from there, remove the socket front, and replace it with a fused switch. But, I was told to just put a 3amp plug on the end, as this would be fine. I am sure.... that this cannot be right? Surely? Please could someone advise, as I have done what they said and just put the 3amp plug obto the end of the light and plugged it into the socket. Is this ok and within regs?
 
Let me get this right, you have installed a 2.5 T&E for a security light, you've chased the wall to conceal the cable, then terminated the 2.5 T&E coming out of the wall into a plug top!!

Did a plumber tell you to do this, or are you having us on here?? lol!!
 
Let me get this right, you have installed a 2.5 T&E for a security light, you've chased the wall to conceal the cable, then terminated the 2.5 T&E coming out of the wall into a plug top!!

Did a plumber tell you to do this, or are you having us on here?? lol!!

No, if you read, i said, "i was going to"!
 
Let me get this right, you have installed a 2.5 T&E for a security light, you've chased the wall to conceal the cable, then terminated the 2.5 T&E coming out of the wall into a plug top!!

Did a plumber tell you to do this, or are you having us on here?? lol!!

I never chased the wall. which I WAS going to. But when they said just terminate it with a plug, I didn't bother!
 
Hi there.

I am just wondering if this is ok to do?

I recently installed a security light and my grandmas house and I drilled straight through the kitchen wall onto the exterior front of the house to install the security pir light. I supplied the light via 2.5mm t&e as it was all I had available (I would have used 1mm but had none available). Anyhow, on the end of the cable in the house, I was going to chase the cable down the wall and into a single socket and spur it from there, remove the socket front, and replace it with a fused switch. But, I was told to just put a 3amp plug on the end, as this would be fine. I am sure.... that this cannot be right? Surely? Please could someone advise, as I have done what they said and just put the 3amp plug obto the end of the light and plugged it into the socket. Is this ok and within regs?

It's not the most elegant way to do it.
 
If you are going to plug it in use 0.75/1.0mm 3c flex.....dont put a plug on 2.5 T/E:13:
A bit of flex isnt going to cost the earth....
 
But is it safe is what I am wondering? Some electricains said that if the house does have RCD protection on the CU, it should be terminated into a Switched spur. Is that right?
No.

You are clearly not an electrician so stick to plugging it in....(BUT USE FLEX)
 
Your better using 1.5 flex an the plug top is perfectly safe its just not good practice an remember if you use a plug top swap the fuse for a 5A
 
You can plug a security light in...its a DIY job...

The way youve described sounds rough...its not the way an electrican would do it....ok well if they arrive on horse back they will...

That 2.5mm T+E is going to look great wired into the fitting and then straight down the wall and cramped into a plug...
 
as several posts have said. if you want it on a plug, use black 0.75mm flex, and 7mm round black clips, same as used for satallite cable. neat job.
 
I'm not so sure it would be fully compliant. Just for the Craic, perhaps someone would like to discuss?

The flex is passing through the wall. It therefore becomes part of the fixed wiring installation.

  1. Flex is not precluded as fixed wiring cable, but should only be used where rigid cable would be unsuitable, such as across a building's earthquake resistant foundation for example.
  2. A flex outlet plate with chord grip and sheath abrasion protection should be used where flex exits a fixed structure.

The fact that the light fitting would be supplied by A 13A plug makes this light fitting a portable (fixed) appliance, and would therefore need to comply with the regulations for portable appliances

  1. It would not be possible to remove or fix the appliance without removing the plug. Does this make it non-compliant as an appliance.
  2. it would not be possible to conduct a visual portable appliance inspection of the cable as it is buried in the wall. It would therefore fail a PAT test.
  3. To be a portable (fixed) appliance, it may be attached to but cannot form part of a building's structure.
  4. A new portable appliance must be supplied with a pre-wired plug.
 
OK, so to comply with above, just chuck the flex through a window. bit of free ventilation included.
 
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reeveerx,
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pc1966,
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