waterproof crimp spade connectors with IP56 rating?

Spoon

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• Nov 26, 2015

• #16

Make sure you are also using a decent Crimp Tool as well.

 

OP

M

mascip

• Nov 26, 2015

• #17

Thanks. I'm using this Facom crimping tool which has been behaving very well so far.

 

OP

H

hightower

• Nov 26, 2015

• #18

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Produc..._Q7FEfDYTeZ3APdp_um9vuGX6j87e6OrUIaAjiK8P8HAQ

These no good? Not sure how small you can get them though

EDIT: Just saw post #3 so no good

 

Last edited by a moderator: Nov 26, 2015

Marvo

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• Nov 26, 2015

• #19

If it's 12v can't you just use a scotchlok type connector. The type that are filled with the silicon gel are meant for automotice and ELV marine applications

 

Paul.M

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• Nov 26, 2015

• #20

These my not suit the light fitting but may help you out on other connections needed on a boat. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Produc...zw0u2z94z6DSa4KAmNhhNVKsOuEksxDanUaAtEn8P8HAQ

 

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• Nov 27, 2015

• #21

There is a substance called scotch kote which would fulfill your needs when used in conjunction with malgy tape

 

Lucien Nunes

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• Nov 27, 2015

• #22

I would avoid using any kind of wiring terminal unenclosed outdoors. I used to install marine electrical equipment and never found it necessary to leave a crimp ring terminal to the mercy of the weather. It needs to be installed inside the casing of the device being connected, or the cable led out to a separate complete weatherproof connector assembly.

If you are adapting an automotive style fixture, then a heat-resistant flex can usually be taken completely inside and sealed to the casing, neither connection being made outside. Note that if the mounting bracket is connected to one lamp terminal then it should be isolated from the steelwork. As for sealed connections, I use a lot of adhesive-lined heatshrink, Duraseal (tm) heat-shrinkable sealed crimp terminals, and jelly-filled (proper) IDCs. Marvo, if you ever see me install a Scotchlok for a paying customer, please shoot me.

 

Marvo

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• Nov 27, 2015

• #23

Lucien Nunes said:

........Marvo, if you ever see me install a Scotchlok for a paying customer, please shoot me.

Click to expand...

Awww Lucien don't be like that, you're just being a connector snob

He did say it's a tunnel lamp so I'm guessing it's one of those long pointy canal type boats you English people like to drive around in so not really marine....well no swell and no salt at least......maybe acidic horse poo and champagne spray ... I'm sure Scotchloks would be fine

 

Last edited: Nov 27, 2015

Flanders

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• Nov 27, 2015

• #24

Can't you just use a male and female 2 pin in line plug IP ratted Plug and remove the crimps
Masterplug Orange Connector 2-Pin | Outdoor Cable Reels | Screwfix.com

 

Lucien Nunes

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• Nov 28, 2015

• #25

one of those long pointy canal type boats you English people like to drive around in so not really marine....well no swell and no salt at least

Click to expand...

As it happens our own long pointy canal type boat is significantly marine, and has been quite a way out towards the long wide salty type sea, even to the point of not being able to see much landy type shore. The mild steel pins in the brass door hinges all seized solid after a bit but the lights kept on working because they don't rely any of those nasty plier-squashy type connectors.

The best shot I can find of our tunnely and spotty type lamps on the forwardy type bulkhead is this one although it's taken a weird angle that forshortens the boat so it looks about 6 feet long (I'm the one with the spiky type hair at the helmy type tiller). I fitted the 8 external lights - 4 nav, 2 spot & 2 tunnel - in 1990 and I have not once touched the connections since, except to change lamps.

The Thames Diamond Jubilee Pageant Image Library

 

Marvo

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• Nov 29, 2015

• #26

^^ :rofl: Seriously, I never knew those canal boats were also sea going, guess every day's a school day but I'm not sure they'd fare too well in the sea around here. Maybe a Scotchlok with an extra dollop of grease on it in that case

 

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M

mascip

• Nov 29, 2015

• #27

Thanks a lot for all the advice and ideas!

In the end we replaced that old halogen light by a brand new LED one (much brighter), with two proper wires coming out, so no need for a spade connector. It's not a sea going boat. We used insulated butt connectors sealed with glue-lined "waterproof" heat shrink tubing like this one: 4MM~52MM Adhesive Lined 4:1 Heat Shrink Tubing ROHS Waterproof | eBay

I ever need a spade connection outside, I will either go for a heat shrinkable sealed crimp connector, or use some of the same heat shrink tubing as above.

 

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