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HappyHippyDad

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I am about to connect up my 12V battery to my inverter (at last!) and I need to crimp some copper tube terminals on to the end of the cable. I have purchased an indent crimper for these tube terminals but I notice it is different to my crimping tool for insulated crimps. The stem of tube terminal is much longer than the width of the crimping part of the crimping tool. Does this terminal require crimping twice in different places along the stem? And if so, does it require a slightly deeper crimp at the bottom of the stem (away from the hole)?

Cheers all.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Correct way to crimp a 25mm copper tube terminal with an indent crimp?
 

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If you use a deeper crimper setting say the 16mm for the 25mm lug you may cut into the lug I would go for the crimp twice method although saying that the Hex crimpers are better as they squeeze the lug from all directions, Other may disagree but I would give it a good pull after you have crimped it to check you have a good hold on the cable.

Thanks Flanders, I wasn't planning on using the 16mm setting, just not biting down as hard at the top.
 
If it's just for one job then borrow a set from your wholesalers instead of buying. Most of them hire out one of two sets, and if you've got a good relationship with them it's normally a free hire
 
If the strands are laid up tight and the cable is a very snug fit in the terminal, a few carefully placed indents may be satisfactory. The problem is that the fine strands tend to flow around the indent and some parts of the cross-section may not make gas-tight metal-metal contact. It will doubtless work OK at first, but subjected to atmospheric attack it probably won't be as corrosion resistant as a uniform cold-weld through a hex-crimp.

I do have an indent crimper that I use for a particular type of terminal that prefers it. It's one of the long-handled adjustable ones that will take a terminal up to 120mm² and it does make a pretty substantial and powerful crimp, but the result on an ordinary tube terminal is not as good as a properly sized hex.

If you have a torch and solder handy, that might be an alternative to waiting for a new tool to arrive. Or a gas stove. Or file two bits of metal into a hex die and crimp it in a vice. As I always say a good sparks can make a sound connection with virtually anything.
 
The indent crimpers,can do a useful job on occasion,being cheap and light,but were designed as a compromise.

Hex,faceted and formed swages,are the preferable means to ensuring a complete,void-free connection,between conductor and terminal.

The indent type of crimper,was a way of achieving the pressure desired,albeit in a small area,using human arm power.

The old "knock-on" lugs,favoured by welders and DC traction engineers,was another way round the same problem,where a raised pip on the front of the lug,was pounded with a hammer,and a similar outcome to the indent crimper,was obtained.

My first portable hand hydraulic crimper,cost over ÂŁ800,when that was 10% of a new van...you can now buy a shanghai-squeezer,on ebay for 40 squid.

There is a lot more going on,in a satisfactory crimp,than just conduction.

...and remember,the next time you are in a lift,or under a crane,on a suspension bridge,or being winched up a recovery wagon...your life is dangling from a ferrule,squeezed on a wire :kiss:
 

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