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Newlec starter switch wiring

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Tony Hillyard

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Good Afternoon All,

I have just bought second had elderly lathe off eBay.co.uk. It is fitted with a single phase motor and all works OK except the red "off" button on the Newlec starter switch does not function. I would like to rectify this. It is wired up with the live feed into T1 connection. I am wondering if the previous owner wired it up wrong.

Can anybody supply a wiring diagram please?

I will try and upload a picture of the inside of the switch.

Thanks in advance.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Newlec starter switch wiring
 
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There should be a diagram attached for wiring a single phase motor through a contactor and over load. as you can see no purple wire, that's what is causing the stopping issue. As soon as you press start the contactor pulls in and a live feed via the purple wire then bypasses the stop button (and overload). It only stops when the isolator is turned off isolating the neutral side of the coil.

That's not much help with setting the overload, do you have access to a clamp meter ?

[ElectriciansForums.net] Newlec starter switch wiring
 
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The stop circuit won't work because it's wired wrong I can identify that by simply looking at it, crucially you need to know the motor full load current in order to set the overload correctly and as this info is missing it is why I suggested looking for a thermal sensor within the motor which could act as a backup if the motor is overloaded. I'm sure colchester will give you your options for you to ponder, as you say they are a good team and will help where possible.
 
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Does the motor run as soon as the isolator is turned on? It looks like the switched side of the retaining circuit has a permanent supply to it, bypassing the actual start button also, what do you think Darkwood? Either way, it ain't good!! It could just be a misaligned overload or a knackered one too, I like the brown core that's trapped on the bottom left lid screw hole, tasty!
 
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Lagentium said:
Does the motor run as soon as the isolator is turned on? It looks like the switched side of the retaining circuit has a permanent supply to it, bypassing the actual start button also, what do you think Darkwood? Either way, it ain't good!! It could just be a misaligned overload or a knackered one too, I like the brown core that's trapped on the bottom left lid screw hole, tasty!
Click to expand...

One of the first questions I asked was regarding where the 2 cables come from that are connected to the overloads NC contact, his answer explains why the stop doesn't work, also the purple wire is permanant live unswitched and is on the 4th pole output and when the start button energises the contactor it makes a permanent link from live to A1 of the coil through the energised contactor pole and the fact its not in the stop circuit either will mean there are 2 reasons the stop doesn't work and for that matter, the overload too.
 
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Hi Just got back from work and now able to see your pictures better on the PC. Your stop button is tied in with the over load so the diagram I posted earlier just needs the separate stop button ignoring.
 
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DAvid Prosser said:
Hi Just got back from work and now able to see your pictures better on the PC. Your stop button is tied in with the over load so the diagram I posted earlier just needs the separate stop button ignoring.
Click to expand...
I think all in all, I will buy a new 1.1/2 H.P. motor and a matching starter switch. I totally agree with Darkwood. Without the correct information of the motor output it is just guessing! So I will bin the butchered starter.

Thanks again everyone for all your advice, it is really appreciated. - Tony
 
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Tony Hillyard said:
I think all in all, I will buy a new 1.1/2 H.P. motor and a matching starter switch. I totally agree with Darkwood. Without the correct information of the motor output it is just guessing! So I will bin the butchered starter.

Thanks again everyone for all your advice, it is really appreciated. - Tony
Click to expand...


Good idea, make sure you let us know how you got on !
 
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Can you beg steal or borrow an ac clamp meter and clamp the line (live) and get the maximum reading in amps whilst running and another whilst using the lathe with a heavy cut. Seems a shame to scrap a brook crompton motor that will run forever.
Ps that looks a cracking workshop you have.
 
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mykey said:
Can you beg steal or borrow an ac clamp meter and clamp the line (live) and get the maximum reading in amps whilst running and another whilst using the lathe with a heavy cut. Seems a shame to scrap a brook crompton motor that will run forever.
Ps that looks a cracking workshop you have.
Click to expand...

Don't worry mykey, I will find another use for that motor. The starter switch will be binned but I will find another use for the motor, not yet, but one day. I do hate throwing things away.

Yes, my workshop works very well. When we moved to France 16 years ago I said I was going to create a workshop just for me, from scratch. Thats what I did. In our barn I installed a new two post car lift and a second hand four post lift. Strangely, the two post lift is starting to play up. The single phase motor is starting to splutter when I use it. But that is for another cry for help on the forum at a later date.

Do have a Merry Christmas everyone!
 
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Tony Hillyard said:
I tracked down a users handbook for this model and it states " The standard motor is 1. 1/2 H.P. 2-phase or 3-phase, but D.C. and Single phase motors are fitted to order at extra cost..."

I am wondering if it might be better to start from scratch, buy a 1. 1/2 H.P. single phase motor and fit a new matching starter switch.
Click to expand...
Probably nowt wrong with motor.
 
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