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Wiring a boiler controller

Discuss Wiring a boiler controller in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

Chrisknowlesuk said:
The current set up is a redundant controller which accounts for that 3 core flex and the two singles coming straight from the large terminals to the block where the controller would normally be. So it’s wired as permanently on via an external switch.

Just thought of a possible solution. If I took the 6mm cables from ccu to a switched spur. Take another set of 6mm from the supply side of the spur to the boiler. Then 2.5mm from the load side of the spur to control circuits.

Provided I can fit 2 x 6mm cables into supply side of spur this means all cables are suitably protected??
Click to expand...
what is the k/watt?
 
Chrisknowlesuk said:
The current set up is a redundant controller which accounts for that 3 core flex and the two singles coming straight from the large terminals to the block where the controller would normally be. So it’s wired as permanently on via an external switch.

Just thought of a possible solution. If I took the 6mm cables from ccu to a switched spur. Take another set of 6mm from the supply side of the spur to the boiler. Then 2.5mm from the load side of the spur to control circuits.

Provided I can fit 2 x 6mm cables into supply side of spur this means all cables are suitably protected??

Does that sound correct.
Click to expand...
Erm no. I think you maybe a little out of your depth...prob best to get an electrician in.
 
That is rougher than a hedgehogs back! Last one I did I bought the supply cable into a 2way con unit at the heater end with a 63a main switch for the heater and 6a mcb for the control side then they are both isolated by the mcb protecting the circuit at the main consumer unit.
 
[ElectriciansForums.net] Wiring a boiler controller

I agree coming out of the boiler supply terminals would be dodgey, not a secure fit and a 2.5mm cable essentially only protected by a 45amp breaker.

I'd rather not add a new circuit to the CCU as it is an old MK board and I think I would struggle to find an appropriate breaker?

I've just seen a 45amp dual appliance junction box from TLC. It seems to be designed to accept a 6mm 45amp supply cable and split to two 6mm output cables. One could go to the boiler and one to a 3a SFCU for the control power. That should keep all cables protected and through sufficiently rated connections.
 
Not quite on topic but I have used the Click Dual Cooker Connection Units and they are great. I am shocked at how much copper is on show from a product image, over sized earth sleeving on the supply, and it doesn't look like any CPC's are doubled over. Everything looks a little strained as well.
 
SparkySy said:
That is rougher than a hedgehogs back! Last one I did I bought the supply cable into a 2way con unit at the heater end with a 63a main switch for the heater and 6a mcb for the control side then they are both isolated by the mcb protecting the circuit at the main consumer unit.
Click to expand...
You beat me to it I was going to suggest that idea and if it is next to the boiler you isolate all supplies into it (one isolator) you may still need to fuse down to say 3A from 6A mcb for the controller/programmer.
 
Update on this job...

Couldn’t find any power to safely tap into. CCU has a last inspection date sticker showing 1998!!!

Looks like an HMO property too judging by the random people appearing. Should have realised all of this on first visit I suppose.

Left job and put in recommendation that they upgrade CCU, add emergency lighting, smoke detectors, CO2, Fire blanket etc etc

Given the job to return and do...
 
What I can't understand with these water heaters is why they don't build in an output for the control circuit, they have a protected output for the pump built in so why not for the control it would save a lot of messing around!
 

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