electrical back box install in a kitchen cabinet

buzzlightyear

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #2

What is the fast fix box for ?

 

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MJPD29

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #3

Yea it'll be fine

 

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Andy78

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #4

Wouldn't have thought there will be room behind for the depth of the box. Would be better mounted in the wall.

 

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Baddegg

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #5

Depends what you class as fabric of the building really....

 

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buzzlightyear

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #6

looking at that me thinks hob going in .
[automerge]1572248983[/automerge]

Baddegg said:

epends what you class as fabric of the building really....

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its not fixed to the wall is it .

 

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littlespark

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #7

That piece of wood is main support across the back of the unit. If it get lifted badly, the wood could split. They’ve removed over half the material.

Either fix to wall below that height, and cut a hole in the thinner board, or drill a hole for cable and use a pattress box.

Looking at it now, it’s a drawer unit so pattress may be too deep.

Single socket for what looks like in built fridge?? Does that have a separate isolator, or will you have to remove the appliance to turn it off?

 

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buzzlightyear

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #8

little spark its a draw pack .

 

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Baddegg

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #9

buzzlightyear said:

looking at that me thinks hob going in .
[automerge]1572248983[/automerge]
its not fixed to the wall is it .

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No buzz that’s me point don’t the regs say attached to fabric of building?

 

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buzzlightyear

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #10

the fabic of the building is fixed the wall not the centre of kitchen my internration.looked what you done i have gone bold now .

 

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Baddegg

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #11

Don’t get me wrong I’ve attached to cabinets retrospectively but on a new fitting I’d put em on the wall...

 

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davesparks

• Oct 28, 2019

• #12

Baddegg said:

No buzz that’s me point don’t the regs say attached to fabric of building?

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I don't think they do, that would make a lot of the installations covered by the regs pretty difficult.

 

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jackhammerJIM

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #13

Andy78 said:

Wouldn't have thought there will be room behind for the depth of the box. Would be better mounted in the wall.

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The batten that the box is fixed thru is going to be flush against a wall so its not going to work .

 

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Andy78

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #14

jackhammerJIM said:

The batten that the box is fixed thru is going to be flush against a wall so its not going to work .

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Thought so. Was looking at the pics on my phone so wasn't sure.

 

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davesparks

• Oct 28, 2019

• #15

Johnanderson said:

Hello

Can please someone tell me if that (see pictures) is safe to do? That will be for the electrical hub.
Thank you

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At the moment it is impossible to say whether th efinished job will be safe or not as we have no information as to what is going to be done next.

It is possible for the finished job to be safe if the regulations are complied with, but it is also possible that it could be unsafe.

 

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Baddegg

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #16

davesparks said:

I don't think they do, that would make a lot of the installations covered by the regs pretty difficult.

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I stand corrected Dave I think I read it in the sparks guide to the building regs..

 

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sinewove

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• Oct 28, 2019

• #17

Baddegg said:

I stand corrected Dave I think I read it in the sparks guide to the building regs..

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If the building regs were correct,would it not preclude sockets in island units and peninsulas? Regards,S

 

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Midwest

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• Oct 29, 2019

• #18

I guess the issue the OP has, is the unit with his dry lining box is a draw unit. Can you not mount this outlet in an adjoining floor unit?

 

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