Extract fan recomendation

littlespark · Feb 15, 2021

Got a job coming soon that’s going to be a nightmare, but in the meantime there’s a few odd jobs to do. One of them is to replace a timed fan in a bathroom.

The way the apartment is constructed, there’s no window in the bathroom, and the existing 230v fan is located above the bath, through a wall and then ducted 3m to outside through another room.

like for like replacement, but no way I am fitting a 230v in that location... so, I’m looking for a fairly strong 12v fan with timer, with enough oomph to pull the air the full 3m distance.
Another apartment above so ceiling mount isn’t an option.
Placement of transformer is also a problem.

Solutions?
(inline fan in the pipe box? Just thought of that)

This same property has another bathroom on a lower floor, has window, but no extractor and it’s fully tiled. Options for extract fan here?
2ft thick outside walls, and he doesn’t want tiles broken. Tiles are also in a brickwork pattern so I can’t even take out one square tile and core through from there.
First thought is the window is recessed into the wall at an angle, and that part of the wall isn’t tiled. Core through on the angle, same from outside and meet in the middle, at a rather obtuse angle?
Flexiduct through the hole.
Customer is waiting for planning consent as the building is listed for this new hole and the refurb to come.

Mike Johnson · Feb 16, 2021

loz2754 said:
Marcrist is the dogs danglies.

Certainly is, I have cored through granite and all other types of stone up to 700mm thick without problems good investment, just in case others do not know it's a dry coring system, no need for any water.

littlespark · Feb 16, 2021

streamer said:
I didn't, I moved away before I could. I've just seen the house from the outside. It's a big impressive building but I could imagine it being awkward - especially as its split up into apartments.

Big ol house in the middle of a new build estate.

littlespark · Feb 17, 2021

My memory ain’t what it used to be.

site visit today, and the upstairs bath is actually just a shower. And the ceiling is so high I think I can get away with a 230v

[ElectriciansForums.net] Extract fan recomendation

The lower floor bathroom still may be a problem.

The room above this is a kitchen with laminated flooring. I’ll have to get that lifted to see which way the boards are running, and in turn which way the joists are. I’m hoping towards the window there so I can put in a ceiling fan and duct to outside.

There is a room with the carpet up, and the joists are running the way I want, but no guarantee being the same in an old building.
Turned over the hall carpet, and those boards are running diagonally... so no help there.

Customer also wants an electric point for a towel rail on the wall to the left of the photo. Drilling through a 3ft wall into a bedroom, then either chase right up to ceiling, or surface trunking on top of skirting to nearest socket.

telectrix · Feb 17, 2021

littlespark said:
My memory ain’t what it used to be.

site visit today, and the upstairs bath is actually just a shower. And the ceiling is so high I think I can get away with a 230v

View attachment 64801

The lower floor bathroom still may be a problem.

View attachment 64802

The room above this is a kitchen with laminated flooring. I’ll have to get that lifted to see which way the boards are running, and in turn which way the joists are. I’m hoping towards the window there so I can put in a ceiling fan and duct to outside.

There is a room with the carpet up, and the joists are running the way I want, but no guarantee being the same in an old building.
Turned over the hall carpet, and those boards are running diagonally... so no help there.

Customer also wants an electric point for a towel rail on the wall to the left of the photo. Drilling through a 3ft wall into a bedroom, then either chase right up to ceiling, or surface trunking on top of skirting to nearest socket.

core it out, man. and don't be put off .a 230V fan in zone 1 is compliant as long as it' IP4x.

nicebutdim · Feb 17, 2021

littlespark said:
The room above this is a kitchen with laminated flooring. I’ll have to get that lifted to see which way the boards are running, and in turn which way the joists are. I’m hoping towards the window there so I can put in a ceiling fan and duct to outside.

Strong magnet on that ceiling might help find joist direction?

streamer · Feb 17, 2021

The other thing to remember if you want to run a duct in between the ceiling and floor above is that in a building like that there will probably be deafening or deadening or what ever folks like to call it. Ie. another layer of boards with rubble and plaster on top. Awful stuff!

123 · Feb 17, 2021

@littlespark Why does the fan need to be 12v? There are plenty of suitable 230v fans for the job.

What do you install when someone wants an electric shower, cause they are 230v as well?

Mike Johnson · Feb 17, 2021

Joists in an old building probably have herringbone strutting between the joist.

littlespark · Feb 17, 2021

123 said:
@littlespark Why does the fan need to be 12v? There are plenty of suitable 230v fans for the job.

What do you install when someone wants an electric shower, cause they are 230v as well?

Why do they manufacture 12v fans?

I had in my head, bathtub with a fan within touching distance, never mind in a specific zone... and as tel rightly mentions... fan with the correct IP rating.
Moot point now as it’s way higher than I thought.

Mike Johnson said:
Joists in an old building probably have herringbone strutting between the joist.

I’ll find out after I get the boards up.

Mike Johnson · Feb 17, 2021

littlespark said:
Why do they manufacture 12v fans?

Why do they make electric cars, answers on a postcard please.

littlespark · Mar 22, 2021

Back at this house today actually doing some work.

Customer had opened up a hatch on his stairwell and come across all this..... redundant (I hope!)

littlespark · Mar 22, 2021

Yeh, it’s redundant. And there’s no copper in the busbar chamber either.... been robbed already.

when were phases L1, L2 and L3 ever marked as ph A, ph B and ph C? That’s what all the labels say on this.

Mikegh · Dec 15, 2021

What components do you need for the rigid ducting on a 4" cooker hood usually ?

Is that the best type of grille

What do you need to attach the rigid pipe to the fan and the grille ?

On the core drills , do you remove the pilot bit during drilling ?

Cheers

Mike Johnson · Dec 15, 2021

After starting the hole, take the pilot drill out and use the hole drilled to guide the core, but make sure you keep it straight so not to introduce a bend in the hole, also always use the side handle on the drill to ensure it does not break your wrist if it gets stuck due to bad alignment, rigid pipe and grill/fan should match size, I use the stainless steel outside grills from TLC: 6 Inch Stainless Steel Round Cowl c/w Internal Louvre & Mesh | Aidelle_Airflow (52644601) - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADRC6SS.html, the last fan I installed was one of the Icon range that opens and close's automatically, no need for a back draft grill: Airflow Aidelle Icon Extractor Fans - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Ventilation_Index/Aidelle_Icon_Fans/index.html. Sorry went off track a bit with extract fans instead of cooker hood extract, but still useful information I think.

Found the 4" : 4 Inch (100mm) Stainless Steel Round Cowl c/w Internal Louvre & Mesh | Aidelle_Airflow (52644501) - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADRC4SS.html

Mikegh · Dec 15, 2021

Ok thanks for all that

So basically once the diamond bit bites you remove the pilot ? Is that it ?

Also seen something about driving pilot goes to reduce dust but didn't quite get that idea ?

Extract fan recomendation

littlespark

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Mike Johnson

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littlespark

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littlespark

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telectrix

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nicebutdim

streamer

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123

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Mike Johnson

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littlespark

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Mike Johnson

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littlespark

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littlespark

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Mikegh

Mike Johnson

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Mikegh

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