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I read once, never seen one for sale, that there is a solid brass replacement for the standard 13A fuse in a 13A plug. This is to eliminate the fusing in the plug, which is handy when having a heavy appliance plugged in behind itself, like under worktops which are isolated and fused by an FCU.

Anyone know where they are available, if they are?

On a dedicated radial with its own MCB and say a 20A isolator switch a washing machine can have a 15A fuseless round pin socket and plug. That is fine, but many manufacturers say that if you remove the 13A moulded plug the guarantee is void. This would never hold up court if an appliance is connected to regulation being sound and safe, but it is avoiding the hassle factor from these irresponsible makers.
 
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That doesn't look like a fuse issue as both pins have suffered thermal damage.
Clearly where the fuse is. If the plug is hidden?
[ElectriciansForums.net] Replacing a 13A plug fuse with solid brass
 
That is a different plug. The moulded plug to me has not been damaged from the fuse.
Just making a point. A 15A fuseless plug without a fuse, as opposed to 13A with a fuse, is more manly being far less likely to overheat. And no nuisance fuse blowing or inaccessible fuses.
 
Just making a point. A 15A fuseless plug without a fuse, as opposed to 13A with a fuse, is more manly being far less likely to overheat
Yes but that moulded plug doesn't appear to be damaged because of the fuse so how would a solid link make any difference. You seem to be drifting from ruptured fuses to thermally damaged plugs which a solid link would not resolve.
 
Yes but that moulded plug doesn't appear to be damaged because of the fuse so how would a solid link make any difference. You seem to be drifting from ruptured fuses to thermally damaged plugs which a solid link would not resolve.
Lets close this thread now please ??
 
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Yes but that moulded plug doesn't appear to be damaged because of the fuse so how would a solid link make any difference. You seem to be drifting from ruptured fuses to thermally damaged plugs which a solid link would not resolve.
That may be the case, but the points are:
1) a 15A plug can take more current;
2) no fuse avoids a hot spot.
3) a potential hot spot is hidden.
 
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That may be the case, but the points are:
1) a 15A plug can take more current;
2) no fuse avoids a hot spot.
3) a potential hot spot is hidden.

Incorrect to say 'no fuse avoids a hot spot'. Even if you had a solid link, it could still suffer from poor contact with the fuse clips, just like a fuse can.

I admire your persistence, but you are not really getting anywhere.
 
If you’re cutting the plug off anyway, may as well fit a flex connection plate instead of socket.
No fuse, no soft plug to socket connection… no overheating

The 13A fused plug was designed for safety, and anything less requires other considerations such as a switched fuse above the worktop rather than a 20A dp.
If fuse links were ever available for plugs in the past, there will a very good reason they are not available now.

To think any domestic socket is inaccessible is poppycock.

It’s adding extra work changing the plug, changing the socket to match. Can still suffer from not gripping the pins and overheating.



Edit. Just getting this post in quick before the inevitable.
 
Just tell the self centred thought police to keep away. If I do not like a thread I do not go on telling the mod to close it down. I am not that stupid or self centred like that.

I agree, I don't think you are stupid. Pig headed maybe. Misguided maybe. Slightly annoying possibly.

It's frustrating really, because I do think you have some knowledge of electrics. But as they say, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
 
Just tell the self centred thought police to keep away. If I do not like a thread I do not go on telling the mod to close it down. I am not that stupid or self centred like that.
See what you did there. Thread closed.
 
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