I'm not an electrician, just a hobbyist trying to build a small sculpture which incorporates LEDs, but they keep burning out. I am using a 8w/24v Meanwell power supply, a single 20mA Dynaohm resistor, and 3 strings of four 5mm warm white LEDs each, in parallel (see attached diagram). They all lit briefly, but very quickly one string after the next went dark. What am I doing wrong, and how to fix it? THANKS!
Discuss Why are my LEDs burning out? in the Lighting Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
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probably excessive voltage. change the power supply to a 12V one. (assuming that the LEDs are "normal" 12V.it will be stated on the box and maybe on the lamp also).)
I'd use one fixed value resistor per chain of LEDs.
can'tunderstand if the LEDs are 12V , why OP is using a 24V PSU.
OP, give us some details of the LEDs you are using.
What are the specs of the LEDs?
The OP's "resistor"is a 20mA constant current device.
Surely you shouldn't put three strings of led's in parallel like that?
Any slight difference in the forward voltage drops of the diodes will mean the current is not equally shared between each of the strings. I'd think all the current will go through the diodes with the lowest drop, and the others won't light?
Broughaha - I think you need a Dynaohm in each of the three strings of LED's for your scheme to work.
Can you give details of the led's - recommended running current, forward voltage when running?
Surely you shouldn't put three strings of led's in parallel like that?
Any slight difference in the forward voltage drops of the diodes will mean the current is not equally shared between each of the strings. I'd think all the current will go through the diodes with the lowest drop, and the others won't light?
Broughaha - I think you need a Dynaohm in each of the three strings of LED's for your scheme to work.
Can you give details of the led's - recommended running current, forward voltage when running?
Last edited:
OP
Thank you all for the very prompt replies. I see that I did not provide enough detail in my original post. I should also mention that I had previously tried using a 12W/15V Meanwell and with that 11 of the 12 bulbs illuminated but the 12th did not. Folks at LEDsupply.com thought I needed more voltage, but then they all burnt out. Below are the product details for the parts I am using:
DynaOhm (mine is the 20mA)
LEDs:
Meanwell Power source (I am using 8w/24v)
DynaOhm (mine is the 20mA)
Product Details
| Output Current: 20mA, 25mA or 30mA | Input Voltage Range: (2.6VDC + Vf LED) to 50VDC |
| Connection: 2 Wire | Output Protection: Open & Short Circuit |
| Maximum Voltage Drop: 30V | Size: 0.25" (Diameter) X 0.5" (L) |
| Control: Pulse & Strobe Capable | Power Dissipation: 0.6W |
LEDs:
Product Details
| Luminous Intensity: 4,700mcd typ. @ 20mA | Power Dissipation: 120mW |
| Max Forward Current: 30mA | Operating Temp: -30 to +85 C |
| Pulse Current: 100mA for <= 10ms, duty <= 1/10 | Soldering Temp: 265 C for 10 secs |
| Forward Voltage: 3.2V typ. 3.5V max @ 20mA | Max Reverse Current: 50uA @ 5V |
| Max Reverse Voltage: 5V | 50° Degree Half Angle |
Meanwell Power source (I am using 8w/24v)
Product Details
| INPUT POWER: 90 ~ 264Vac | CASING: Fully Isolated Plastic Case, IP42 NON PFC |
| OUTPUT VOLTAGE: 5-36VDC | WATTS: 8W up to 35W |
| CONNECTIONS: UL Rated 18-20 AWG Wire | Low Cost, High Reliability |
| WARRANTY: 2-Years | SAFETY: Class 2 Power Unit, Short-Circuit, Over-Load & Over-Voltage |
| Super Small & Compact Size! | APPLICATIONS: LED Lighting & Moving Sign Applications |
OP
Hi Avo I just posted a general reply with the details of what equipment I am using. I'd be very grateful if you take a look at that and then let me know if you think putting a separate dynaohm on each string would be the best approach, or if you think some other arrangement would be more suitable. Thanks!!
Hi Brouhaha
Thanks for the data. Everything we need is there.
Are your LED's embodied in the sculpture already, or are you still at the experimental stage?
If you still have freedom to play with the arrangement, I would suggest splitting the LED's into two strings of six, each with a Dynaohm in series.
Taking the 'typical' figures, with 3.2V across each lamp, thats 19.2V across six, plus the drop across the Dynaohm of 2.6V = 21.8V so with a 24V supply it should work - BUT if we take 'worst case' of 3.5V across each lamp, that's 21V across all, plus 2.6V = 23.6V, rather close to your power supply output. That's why I think it's best to try it!
You can of course keep to your original scheme of having three strings, but with a smaller number of lamps in each string, I think it's a good idea to have a Dynaohm for each. I was just trying to save you having to buy more Dynaohm's than you need!
If you have a multimeter it would be useful to check you do get these voltages and currents in practice.
Finally I'm not clear why the bulbs should "blow up" unless you connect one the wrong way round, or directly across the supply!
I can see why some may not light when you have parallel strings of a small number of lamps - that's what you need to avoid.
Unless your Dynaohm has blown up while experimenting. It's vital you have a current limiting device like that in each circuit, otherwise you will destroy the bulbs connecting them straight to the psu.
It would be really useful to have a multimeter to check you have 20mA flowing through the Dynaohm(s).
Good luck with the project
Thanks for the data. Everything we need is there.
Are your LED's embodied in the sculpture already, or are you still at the experimental stage?
If you still have freedom to play with the arrangement, I would suggest splitting the LED's into two strings of six, each with a Dynaohm in series.
Taking the 'typical' figures, with 3.2V across each lamp, thats 19.2V across six, plus the drop across the Dynaohm of 2.6V = 21.8V so with a 24V supply it should work - BUT if we take 'worst case' of 3.5V across each lamp, that's 21V across all, plus 2.6V = 23.6V, rather close to your power supply output. That's why I think it's best to try it!
You can of course keep to your original scheme of having three strings, but with a smaller number of lamps in each string, I think it's a good idea to have a Dynaohm for each. I was just trying to save you having to buy more Dynaohm's than you need!
If you have a multimeter it would be useful to check you do get these voltages and currents in practice.
Finally I'm not clear why the bulbs should "blow up" unless you connect one the wrong way round, or directly across the supply!
I can see why some may not light when you have parallel strings of a small number of lamps - that's what you need to avoid.
Unless your Dynaohm has blown up while experimenting. It's vital you have a current limiting device like that in each circuit, otherwise you will destroy the bulbs connecting them straight to the psu.
It would be really useful to have a multimeter to check you have 20mA flowing through the Dynaohm(s).
Good luck with the project
Last edited:
OP
I'm attaching a photo of the sculpture, taken when it was running on the 15V power supply, and a 30mA dynaohm, and one of the bulbs was not lighting up. I then tried changing to the current power supply, which is 8W/24V, and all the lights illuminated but then one string went dark (they did not blow up or even look different in any way, just stopped lighting. I then rebuilt it, replacing the four dead bulbs, keeping the 8W/24V power supply but changing to a 20mA Dynaohm (at the suggestion of someone at LEDSupply.com) but once again a string of bulbs went dark, followed in short order by the remaining strings. I wish that the bulbs were ok and that I just need to fix something about the power supply and resistor, because replacing the bulbs means a time-consuming rebuilding process, but I am assuming that in fact the bulbs are permanently dysfunctional now and will need to be replaced. So, in answer to your question, I guess I am back to the experimental stage!Hi Brouhaha
Thanks for the data. Everything we need is there.
Are your LED's embodied in the sculpture already, or are you still at the experimental stage?
If you still have freedom to play with the arrangement, I would suggest splitting the LED's into two strings of six, each with a Dynaohm in series.
Taking the 'typical' figures, with 3.2V across each lamp, thats 19.2V across six, plus the drop across the Dynaohm of 2.6V = 21.8V so with a 24V supply it should work - BUT if we take 'worst case' of 3.5V across each lamp, that's 21V across all, plus 2.6V = 23.6V, rather close to your power supply output. That's why I think it's best to try it!
You can of course keep to your original scheme of having three strings, but with a smaller number of lamps in each string, I think it's a good idea to have a Dynaohm for each. I was just trying to save you having to buy more Dynaohm's than you need!
If you have a multimeter it would be useful to check you do get these voltages and currents in practice.
Finally I'm not clear why the bulbs should "blow up" unless you connect one the wrong way round, or directly across the supply!
I can see why some may not light when you have parallel strings of a small number of lamps - that's what you need to avoid.
Unless your Dynaohm has blown up while experimenting. It's vital you have a current limiting device like that in each circuit, otherwise you will destroy the bulbs connecting them straight to the psu.
It would be really useful to have a multimeter to check you have 20mA flowing through the Dynaohm(s).
Good luck with the project
Do you think that there is any chance that the existing bulbs might still be functional and that they would light up again if I fixed some other problem (e.g. replace the Dynaohm or power supply with something different)?
If not, I will try to redesign as you suggest with two strings of six, each with it's own dynaohm (do you think 20maA is the correct size for those?)
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