I Knew it was going to be one of those days when my first customer couldn't understand why his 9.5kw standalone oven/hob kept cutting out because it was on the old gas ignition 1mm flex & plug. I showed him the how the cable was red hot and the plug half melted but, as usual in these cases, because "it had worked" for sometime I was expected to replace the cable and plug and he'd take his chances. I explained I couldn't do that (if you ask why I would suggest you put your head in an oven... a gas one.. ) and he'd need a new circuit putting in. To top it off, the socket behind the cooker was a spur and then spurred to the cooker hood
I'm assuming as the current would have been about 19-20A that is why the fuse didn't blow (have I got 20A to blow a 13A fuse right?)
Because he was reluctant to pay for a new circuit I considered whether replacing the cable and fusing the plug at 7A would work as a temp measure if he kept the power down (as 7A would protect the plug from setting fire?) but he didn't want to reduce the power ergo I ruled it out and said the only thing I could do is install a new circuit (with blooming concrete floor, typical).
Just interested in any thoughts from you lovely brainboxes
I'm assuming as the current would have been about 19-20A that is why the fuse didn't blow (have I got 20A to blow a 13A fuse right?)
Because he was reluctant to pay for a new circuit I considered whether replacing the cable and fusing the plug at 7A would work as a temp measure if he kept the power down (as 7A would protect the plug from setting fire?) but he didn't want to reduce the power ergo I ruled it out and said the only thing I could do is install a new circuit (with blooming concrete floor, typical).
Just interested in any thoughts from you lovely brainboxes