need for a fused switch for boiler / and boiler earth cross bonding

NickTG said:

hi there
as i write this i realise i have 3 interconnected questions about fused switches; two relating to my boiler (hope its not to cheeky to ask 3 questions all in one go )

Question1:
i have a radial circuit 1.5mm cable on a 6amp fuse from my consumer unit straight to the boiler where it is wired direct to the boiler (the circuit does not service any other appliance). Do i need an intermediary fused switch (or are fused switches needed when the appliances being serviced is not in itself a fused appliance or on a smaller cable to its supply feed?)

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NickTG said:

Question 2:
on my oven circuit it used to have a normal 2 gang switched socket at the back of the oven and i had 2 fused plugs one for the oven (just normal 60cm oven in kitchen units) and one for the gas hob (electric for ignition). About 7 years ago when i had a new hob, the gas guy said i should not have switches as it can create a spark so both the oven and the hob were hard wired into the socket - but there is no fuse switch. Ive recently bought a new oven 2.8kw and i now see it comes with a normal plug ! - am i right in thinking there is no longer any need to hard wire these alliances in and a socket with a plug is ok ?

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NickTG said:

Question3
Ive also taken the bottom cover off of the boiler and taken a pic of the bonding - there is a 16mm cable coming into the boiler and from that there is 6mm cable spanning across the 5 pipes is this what is commonly referred to as cross bonding to boiler ? (it looks like somewhere along the way ive lost a couple of tags which i should replace)

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pc1966 said:

You probably don't need the fuse, though it is best to check what the boiler manufacturer specifies.

However, it is very off not to have a local means of isolation to allow safe servicing of the boiler. So the short answer is there should be a switch, and probably making that a FCU is as good as anything.

A photo is needed here. If it is a typical 32A ring final circuit then any equipment off it should be fused, so either a 13A plug & socket, a FCU, or just the fuse (FCU without switch). But again no local means of isolation is very bad practice and in some case (e.g. Scottish building regulations) it is a requierment for accessible isolation for kitchen appliances & white goods.

The big cable could be 10mm or 16mm and should be to the main earth terminal. The regulations normally specify this as close to the entry point after the gas meter as practical and before and T-branches, so it is possible this was deemed the easiest place to bond it.

The other bonding is typically done, though with a metal boiler somewhat superfluous!

However, the way the T&E cable is joined it no (presumably) supply the boiler on the left is appalling! No cable support and no box covering the terminals.

Click to expand...

pc1966 said:

You probably don't need the fuse, though it is best to check what the boiler manufacturer specifies.

However, it is very off not to have a local means of isolation to allow safe servicing of the boiler. So the short answer is there should be a switch, and probably making that a FCU is as good as anything.

A photo is needed here. If it is a typical 32A ring final circuit then any equipment off it should be fused, so either a 13A plug & socket, a FCU, or just the fuse (FCU without switch). But again no local means of isolation is very bad practice and in some case (e.g. Scottish building regulations) it is a requierment for accessible isolation for kitchen appliances & white goods.

The big cable could be 10mm or 16mm and should be to the main earth terminal. The regulations normally specify this as close to the entry point after the gas meter as practical and before and T-branches, so it is possible this was deemed the easiest place to bond it.

The other bonding is typically done, though with a metal boiler somewhat superfluous!

However, the way the T&E cable is joined it no (presumably) supply the boiler on the left is appalling! No cable support and no box covering the terminals.

Click to expand...

pc1966 said:

You probably don't need the fuse, though it is best to check what the boiler manufacturer specifies.

However, it is very off not to have a local means of isolation to allow safe servicing of the boiler. So the short answer is there should be a switch, and probably making that a FCU is as good as anything.

A photo is needed here. If it is a typical 32A ring final circuit then any equipment off it should be fused, so either a 13A plug & socket, a FCU, or just the fuse (FCU without switch). But again no local means of isolation is very bad practice and in some case (e.g. Scottish building regulations) it is a requierment for accessible isolation for kitchen appliances & white goods.

The big cable could be 10mm or 16mm and should be to the main earth terminal. The regulations normally specify this as close to the entry point after the gas meter as practical and before and T-branches, so it is possible this was deemed the easiest place to bond it.

The other bonding is typically done, though with a metal boiler somewhat superfluous!

However, the way the T&E cable is joined it no (presumably) supply the boiler on the left is appalling! No cable support and no box covering the terminals.

Click to expand...