no_pun_intended
DIY
I'm taking a look at the 120v wiring in an old travel trailer that I recently bought, and plan to live in full time soon. It has some quirks that I will explain below, but first here's a pic and diagram of what's going on:
![[ElectriciansForums.net] Low voltage from a 120 v breaker box, sometimes](https://www.electriciansforums.net/attachments/img_20220827_164814-jpg.101115/ "[ElectriciansForums.net] Low voltage from a 120 v breaker box, sometimes")
Here's the breaker box as it sits now
![[ElectriciansForums.net] Low voltage from a 120 v breaker box, sometimes](https://www.electriciansforums.net/attachments/120v_breaker_box-png.101116/ "[ElectriciansForums.net] Low voltage from a 120 v breaker box, sometimes")
And of course, a diagram to help make sense of that rat's nest.
The breaker labels in the diagram are pulled from the outside panel. Note that one of the four breakers has been used as a sort of improvised main breaker, by putting the hot wire directly into it, and using that as the hot connection to the rest of the box. I actually have a couple questions about this setup:
1. Is this "Main" breaker setup safe?
I think it is, my dad thinks it isn't. We have been arguing about this for two days now.
2. Does anything stand out here that might cause the 2nd breaker slot (Outlets+Lights) to have intermittent lower voltage?
Because sometimes, it does. Testing between the 2nd breaker lug and the neutral bar the other day, I got 88 volts. The outlets matched. Later, I tested the same area and got 96 volts. And then most recently, it tested for a nice 118 volts. Nothing has really changed in the breaker box since then, and the input line is always supplying 120v. I also get phantom voltage at the outlets even when all breakers are off, ie. 96 volts tested at the outlet, but it wont power an appliance until the breaker is actually switched on.
My theory used to be that the way in which the Main/AC was wired acted like a series circuit and lowered the voltage going to the 2nd breaker through the lug wire. But testing 118 v from the outlets recently disproved that, especially since I turned on the AC and lights afterward to see if they would bring the voltage back down. They did not. So what gives?
Here's the breaker box as it sits now
And of course, a diagram to help make sense of that rat's nest.
The breaker labels in the diagram are pulled from the outside panel. Note that one of the four breakers has been used as a sort of improvised main breaker, by putting the hot wire directly into it, and using that as the hot connection to the rest of the box. I actually have a couple questions about this setup:
1. Is this "Main" breaker setup safe?
I think it is, my dad thinks it isn't. We have been arguing about this for two days now.
2. Does anything stand out here that might cause the 2nd breaker slot (Outlets+Lights) to have intermittent lower voltage?
Because sometimes, it does. Testing between the 2nd breaker lug and the neutral bar the other day, I got 88 volts. The outlets matched. Later, I tested the same area and got 96 volts. And then most recently, it tested for a nice 118 volts. Nothing has really changed in the breaker box since then, and the input line is always supplying 120v. I also get phantom voltage at the outlets even when all breakers are off, ie. 96 volts tested at the outlet, but it wont power an appliance until the breaker is actually switched on.
My theory used to be that the way in which the Main/AC was wired acted like a series circuit and lowered the voltage going to the 2nd breaker through the lug wire. But testing 118 v from the outlets recently disproved that, especially since I turned on the AC and lights afterward to see if they would bring the voltage back down. They did not. So what gives?
