ninemaverickbars
DIY
Hello everyone,
Back again after receiving great advice for the bathroom a few months back. This time I'm making a mess in the kitchen.
We have a 32A MCB to radial final which goes to a cooker control switch which also has an integrated 1 gang socket. Off of this is a double socket which serves an electric oven and gas hob. Old oven is rated under 3,000W and old hob much less.
New oven rated 3,000W. New hob is induction, rated at 3,000W.
My plan is to remove the 2 gang socket (20A?) which we have currently and replace with 2No. FCU fused at 13A each. Supply side of 1st FCU would spur across with 6mm2 to supply side of 2nd FCU. 35mm metal double backbox.
Would you agree that this results in each appliance being fused correctly at 13A and the 6mm2 supply being protected at an appropriate 32A? I'll be sure to crimp the appliance flexes following advice received from you all last time.
However, I feel the presence of a 1 gang on the cooker control switch may present a problem? I haven't checked yet, but if its fused at 13A, that of course creates a total potential load on that circuit of 39A. We don't use the socket, but that doesn't mean to say nobody would in the future. As the tiles are cut out for it, it's going to look ugly no matter what I do. I feel like I should replace the cooker switch with a standard switch unit (no socket) then install a blanking plate to cover the hole?
All advice welcome.
Many thanks
Back again after receiving great advice for the bathroom a few months back. This time I'm making a mess in the kitchen.
We have a 32A MCB to radial final which goes to a cooker control switch which also has an integrated 1 gang socket. Off of this is a double socket which serves an electric oven and gas hob. Old oven is rated under 3,000W and old hob much less.
New oven rated 3,000W. New hob is induction, rated at 3,000W.
My plan is to remove the 2 gang socket (20A?) which we have currently and replace with 2No. FCU fused at 13A each. Supply side of 1st FCU would spur across with 6mm2 to supply side of 2nd FCU. 35mm metal double backbox.
Would you agree that this results in each appliance being fused correctly at 13A and the 6mm2 supply being protected at an appropriate 32A? I'll be sure to crimp the appliance flexes following advice received from you all last time.
However, I feel the presence of a 1 gang on the cooker control switch may present a problem? I haven't checked yet, but if its fused at 13A, that of course creates a total potential load on that circuit of 39A. We don't use the socket, but that doesn't mean to say nobody would in the future. As the tiles are cut out for it, it's going to look ugly no matter what I do. I feel like I should replace the cooker switch with a standard switch unit (no socket) then install a blanking plate to cover the hole?
All advice welcome.
Many thanks
