The 3 port valve head should have no affect on the room thermostat getting voltage or not, it should go from the heating programmer to the thermostat.
Discuss Central heating thermostat in the Central Heating Systems area at ElectriciansForums.net
And then to the 3 port valve, so don't condemn the valve just yet.The 3 port valve head should have no affect on the room thermostat getting voltage or not, it should go from the heating programmer to the thermostat.
That's the quality you got with new build houses 28 years ago, Brian and now it's coming home to roost!Hmmm, a surface pattress box and strip connector, rather than a purpose made heating connector box, where all the connections are labelled.
I think the yellow with the red sleeve, near the middle, is the heating wire from the room stat, so the red in the same cable is probably the feed to the room stat, and the wire joined to it on the strip will be the heating on wire from the programmer.
Looking at what terminals the valve is connected to greatly reduces the number of unknowns.We can only guess at what all the wires are.
But it's much more fun this way! In fact Danfoss 3 port zone valve wiring is a known entity and has stayed the same luckily even for 30+ years!We can only guess at what all the wires are.
Fantastic, thanks Tim I'll check this tomorrow. Thanks Buzz I'll reply to your helpful questions tomorrow too.But it's much more fun this way! In fact Danfoss 3 port zone valve wiring is a known entity and has stayed the same luckily even for 30+ years!
As per @freddo 's comments:
Grey is Hot Water Off
Brown/White is Heating On
Blue is Neutral
and Orange is the output signal to ask the boiler to fire up.
View attachment 105004
So with 100% certainty we can say that with the Heating set to ON and stat all the way up then 2 and 3 should measure 230v to Neutral (marked)
I agree with Brian and Freddo that 1 is the controller asking for heat. So this should also measure 230v to Neutral.
Obviously this needs doing very carefully.
That will quickly reveal what is going on.
It looks like you may have the neutral present at the stat, that some installations lack, but in my experience of 'stats similar, but not identical, to the one in the link, it might need a permanent live to preserve its programming, which will need the 'stat wiring to be arranged so that is is before the programmer instead of after.Would the wiring on my thermostat accommodate one of these digital/programmable units such as these
Is that the blue wire for neutral, Brian, I don't think that's connected at the junction box.It looks like you may have the neutral present at the stat, that some installations lack, but in my experience of 'stats similar, but not identical, to the one in the link, it might need a permanent live to preserve its programming, which will need the 'stat wiring to be arranged so that is is before the programmer instead of after.
The one's I have in one of my properties will default to their 'off' position if their power is interrupted.
Edit: Also worth noting that there are two types of these kinds of 'stats. Ones with the temperature sensor built in, and ones where they connect to a remote temperature sensor on a 2m or so lead.
Yes Brian, the stat was turned up thanks.Is the 'stat turned up?
The red at 1 should be the other end of the red at the 'stat, so check there as well.
The blue may not be connected at the moment, but it can be, if needed.
Drum roll with the elephant on top.Does that mean everything works now?
It seems to be, Brian, however there may be an issue with the three port valve we discussed earlier. I placed this to water and heating manually and haven't tested by flicking over to water only yet. I'm not to worried about that though as I can wait for the warmer weather and get it converted to a two port as suggested.Does that mean everything works now?
The wire could have been tightened down on the insulation, instead of bare copper. It might be still on the insulation, but the screw has now cut through it.So now we have power in the stat wire, I've no idea why, all I did was open the connections on that block, push them in further and tightened them up.
Thanks very much Brian and to everybody else who has contributed to helping me resolve this issue you gents are fantastic and really generous the way you give up your spare time to help numpties like me. Have a happy and safe new year all of you and thanks again.The wire could have been tightened down on the insulation, instead of bare copper. It might be still on the insulation, but the screw has now cut through it.
Blue wire needs to go to neutral, which timhoward has identified in post #33.
Congratulations on a successful fault finding.
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