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Fuseboard change advice on running the pyro cables into the board

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Josh555

Josh555

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I have a fuseboard change I need to do soon
I’m putting in a FUSEBOX 7 or 10 way RCBO+ SPD

My only concern is how I should run the pyro cables in the board. The board is in a small cupboard in the hallway. I know cables that are not in enclosures need to be double insulated as the pyro cables are in the small cupboard can I just run them straight into the board or do I need to add some conduit , copex etc
 

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Josh555 said:
I have a fuseboard change I need to do soon
I’m putting in a FUSEBOX 7 or 10 way RCBO+ SPD

My only concern is how I should run the pyro cables in the board. The board is in a small cupboard in the hallway. I know cables that are not in enclosures need to be double insulated as the pyro cables are in the small cupboard can I just run them straight into the board or do I need to add some conduit , copex etc
Click to expand...
 
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It looks like the interior of the cupboard is an enclosure in itself, but has been stripped out to fit in the current board.

Once the board has been changed, make a cover that fills the hole, covering the pyros, with a space that the front of the new board protrudes through.

If you need a tool, like a screwdriver, to remove the cover, and it’s the proper IP rating with the cover in place… it’s an enclosure.


Edit, I see the meter is in there too, so might be a bit of a job to make it fit.
 
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I thought any enclosure was for fire rating as well as stopping you touching it. Maybe a bit of copex with the copex gland screwed onto the end of the pyro. I hate disturbing old pyro like that though, if you dmamge the pot moving the cables about in any way you are in a world of trouble, no amount of wagos will fix that.
 
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LewisM said:
You need a Wylex or Crabtree board to do them properly.

See the link

Wylex Mantel, Clifton and Other Meter Cabinets Consumr Units

Buy Online Wylex Mantel, Clifton and Other Meter Cabinets Consumer Units to 17th Edition 3rd Amendment Compliance From Edwardes Brothers
www.edwardes.co.uk www.edwardes.co.uk
Click to expand...
That looks an interesting board, I thought skeleton boards were the type that sink into a wall though so only the cover protrudes past the plaster. we fitted about 20 Hager skeleton boards the other year in some flats and the back bit fitted inside the stud wall before it got boarded, then when it was all finished you just popped the cover on and everything was flush.
 
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oscar21 said:
That looks an interesting board, I thought skeleton boards were the type that sink into a wall though so only the cover protrudes past the plaster. we fitted about 20 Hager skeleton boards the other year in some flats and the back bit fitted inside the stud wall before it got boarded, then when it was all finished you just popped the cover on and everything was flush.
Click to expand...

They would have been flush mount units not skeleton ones though wouldn't they t?
 
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Dont quite understand your question, but you just need to regland them back into the new board with lock nut or lock ring, could even use coupler and bush as well.
 
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I think he's concerned they might not reach the new board given there looks to be no play whatsoever. Maybe a metal adaptable box could be used to provide a fully maintainable join above the new board or as you say 5 couplers.
 
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