LittleTyke
DIY
I don't have a clue how to do that!If I had a heating programmer that had failed, I'd add a link to the wiring to make the heating come on so I wasn't cold!
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Discuss Problem with Danfoss FP715Si Programmer in the Central Heating Systems area at ElectriciansForums.net
I don't have a clue how to do that!If I had a heating programmer that had failed, I'd add a link to the wiring to make the heating come on so I wasn't cold!
Yes, I'm thinking about an alternative make, because the Danfoss brand is really peeing me off now. I've seen Honeywell mentioned elsewhere on the internet. Is that a more reliable manufacturer? And would it involve new wiring or simply installing a Honeywell programmer on the Danfoss mounting plate?If I had a heating programmer that routinely failed, I'd have a new spare in the cupboard, ready to swap it next time it failed.
But no, wait, on second thoughts, I'd have switched to another brand by now - they use a standard backplate and should be a simple swap.
Thanks very much for the offer. I will add a note to my diary to remind me when the heating engineer has replaced the faulty Danfoss. The last time it broke was March 2021. Where are roughly located? I'm in Lincolnshire. However, I really would like a different make of programmer now, because the Danfoss seems to be very unreliable. I have no idea why a heating programmer should fail so spectacularly just because of a power outage. Must be a very poor design, either with the PCB or the software. It would seem to me, as a retired programmer, that the one thing the manufacturer should test for is resilience during/after a power cut!I know this is no use to you at the moment but it could be something simple. I assume it will be using a dropper capacitor to supply the low voltage and to recharge the battery. Capacitors over time can 'age' and the unit won't charge or operate correctly. When you get a new unit if you can get the faulty one to me I can take a look at both the battery and capacitor for you. Not making any promises as I've never seen the inside a Danfoss unit before but if it can be fixed it would be a useful spare for you.
Simple on/off switch (or eWeLink) between Live in and central heating on will switch the heating on, (but not off if it's alrady switched on by the programmer).I don't have a clue how to do that!
Based on the experience of fitting and servicing programmers over a lifetime of doing so, I came to the conclusion that the CP715 is the most reliable and easily programmable unit out there. Whatever the internet says, I've never had a problem with a single one, other than what I stated earlier in the thread.Yes, I'm thinking about an alternative make, because the Danfoss brand is really peeing me off now. I
This was something dreamt up by British Gas, IIRC, but unfortunately, they didn't specify it closely enough.But no, wait, on second thoughts, I'd have switched to another brand by now - they use a standard backplate and should be a simple swap.
I'm in S. Wales, just north of Cardiff so I assume would need to be posted unless you fancy a long drive ;-)Thanks very much for the offer. I will add a note to my diary to remind me when the heating engineer has replaced the faulty Danfoss. The last time it broke was March 2021. Where are roughly located? I'm in Lincolnshire. However, I really would like a different make of programmer now, because the Danfoss seems to be very unreliable. I have no idea why a heating programmer should fail so spectacularly just because of a power outage. Must be a very poor design, either with the PCB or the software. It would seem to me, as a retired programmer, that the one thing the manufacturer should test for is resilience during/after a power cut!
I don't have a clue how to do that!
or a wireSimple on/off switch (or eWeLink)
which is the terminal marked "L" on the backplate (mains live!)between Live in
which is the terminal marked "4" on the backplateand central heating on
will switch the heating on, (but not off if it's alrady switched on by the programmer).
So how come I've had three go faulty in several years? And other users on the internet have reported the same problem. Maybe your properties have never had a power outage!Based on the experience of fitting and servicing programmers over a lifetime of doing so, I came to the conclusion that the CP715 is the most reliable and easily programmable unit out there. Whatever the internet says, I've never had a problem with a single one, other than what I stated earlier in the thread.
Still have five of them in service in my own properties.
Posting it wouldn't be a problem. I'll search for that Drayton LP522 right now. Thanks. By the way, did you ever experience an unplanned power outage in a storm? Because that's what kills the Danfoss here nearly every time. Only once did it recover when the power came back on. And here in rural (very!) Lincolnshire we get power cuts almost whenever there's a storm. Mostly, the National Grid (formerly, here, Western Power Distribution) fixes it in a couple of hours, but last week it took them 5 hours.I'm in S. Wales, just north of Cardiff so I assume would need to be posted unless you fancy a long drive ;-)
My own unit is a Drayton LP522. It's worked fine for me so far.
EDIT:
Just checked the wiring and it 'should' be a direct replacement.
Extremely rural where I am. All 11kV distribution lines, with transformers rarely serving more than two or three properties. Lightning strikes cutting the power for a couple of seconds are common, but because I'm served by a section that also supplies a main TV transmitter (which handles comms for most of N Devon), the breakers are arranged so that, unless the problem is very local, our section stays on.Maybe your properties have never had a power outage!
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