Not had power outages due to storms for a long time. It's pretty reliable around here. What part of Lincolnshire are you in?
Discuss Problem with Danfoss FP715Si Programmer in the Central Heating Systems area at ElectriciansForums.net
Extremely rural where I am. All 11kV distribution lines, with transformers rarely serving more than two or three properties. Lightning strikes cutting the power for a couple of seconds are common, but because I'm served by a section that also supplies a main TV transmitter (which handles comms for most of N Devon), the breakers are arranged so that, unless the problem is very local, our section stays on.Maybe your properties have never had a power outage!
It's not the central heating I need, but hot water, as it's costing a fortune to heat the cylinder in the airing cupboard with the immersion heater. It's mild enough still to use small-ish oil-filled radiators to heat just one room. In winter I spend most of my day in the south-facing kitchen anyway, which keeps fairly warm from cooking, the TV and even the weak sunshine streaming through the glass patio doors.Simple on/off switch (or eWeLink) between Live in and central heating on will switch the heating on, (but not off if it's alrady switched on by the programmer).
YesSo if I connected a temporary wire from Live to connector #3, that would switch on the hot water, yes?
Yes.How would I switch the hot water to OFF? If the DHW connector is N/C, which it apparently is, then just switching off the temporary inline switch should cause it to switch off the boiler?
I decided to get a new programmer instead. I ordered the Drayton LP722 yesterday from Screwfix. It was delivered (for free) earlier this afternoon. I isolated the power, removed the Danfoss, checked the gravity/pumped link on the rear of the Drayton (it was already set to pumped), installed it, switched the power back on. Bingo! The clock was 4 minutes out, so I adjusted that. Then I used the Boost feature to switch on the heating and the boiler is now running and the radiators are nice and hot! I am one happy bunny, I can tell you!Yes
Yes.
You don't need to use the "off" contact to turn the HW off. Once power is removed from 3 the HW will go off, so your suggestion should work.
The "off" contact is sometimes used with system boilers to provide power to boiler/valve(s), if heating & HW shouldn't be on at the same time.
Glad you are back up and running. Do you want me to take a look at the old unit and see if it's the simple fix that I think it probably is ? If it's fixable then it might be useful as a back up for you.
Glad you are back up and running. Do you want me to take a look at the old unit and see if it's the simple fix that I think it probably is ? If it's fixable then it might be useful as a back up for you.
I wonder if these are getting fritzed by the power outages or over voltages.
Do you have surge protection @LittleTyke ?
Could be these Danfos controllers are acting as a canary, it possible other more expensive items are at risk of damage.
Yep, got your email and have replied to you. I'll send that faulty Danfoss tomorrow, Saturday.That would be great. I love looking into faulty stuff and (try to ) fix them. I'll drop you an email now.
I had a bit of spare time today so had a look at the Danfoss that @LittleTyke sent to me. I only had a X2 capacitor and not the X1 that was in there originally but what the hell, let's live life on the edge Anyway, I chucked the new cap in, soldered on some fly leads (DON'T DO THIS AT HOME FOLKS), plugged it in and, well, let the picture talk for itself. Just got to order a correct X1 capacitor now.
View attachment 112623
In the photo it's the square(ish) yellow block. The original was a grey colour.By the way, just as a matter of interest, can anyone point to the faulty capacitor in question? If another user gets the same issue and takes the unit to an electrician, maybe they can get it fixed cheaply. I don't think capacitors are expensive.
Yes, it's the main volt dropper. I don't know about dimming the LEDs. In the case of the one I have here the LCD went before the LEDs.@Moley Is the capacitor the main volt dropper for the PSU? If they're prone to slowly failing, I wonder if they could be responsible for the dimming LEDs?
I have one where the LEDs are almost out. I might just open it up and check that capacitor.
Having just read a bunch of stuff about capacitive dropper power supplies, is Danfoss going the X1 route to avoid the cost of a proper switching power supply to drop 230V to 5V? In one video the guy says near the end "That is why capacitive dropper power supplies are super dangerous and should always be positioned inside a closed housing."Yes, it's the main volt dropper. I don't know about dimming the LEDs. In the case of the one I have here the LCD went before the LEDs.
I would say 'super dangerous' is a bit of an exaggeration. They don't isolate the output from the mains input so yes, they should be enclosed. Apart from that they are no more dangerous than any other. It's not just Danfoss that use them. Dropper caps are used quite a bit in enclosed equipment. I would imagine you will have quite a few scattered around the house especially if you have LED light bulbs, remote sockets etc. If a switch mode power supply was used it would increase the size by quite a lot too.
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