Reparing plasterboard after cutting | on ElectriciansForums

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M

Mewff91

Hi

I am after some information or any tips you have.

How do you repair tge plasterboard if you have to cut holes for running cables or to get your angle drill in ect...

I.e when putting in spotlights

Hope you can help!
 
Use one or two lengths of wooden battening and place them into the hole you have made (making sure that they are longer than the hole is wide) and screw them securely into place either side of the hole. Then find the original piece of plasterboard that you cut out or cut a new piece to fit and screw into the secure wood above. Use bonding and/or skim coat to achive desired result :)

Does that make sense? If not, see my simple drawing below:

[ElectriciansForums.net] Reparing plasterboard after cutting
 
Use one or two lengths of wooden battening and place them into the hole you have made (making sure that they are longer than the hole is wide) and screw them securely into place either side of the hole. Then find the original piece of plasterboard that you cut out or cut a new piece to fit and screw into the secure wood above. Use bonding and/or skim coat to achive desired result :)

Does that make sense? If not, see my simple drawing below:

View attachment 12312
I just cut a strip of plasterboard almost the width of the hole. Cut into this strip a pull-down hole for your thumb. Apply a quickset no-nail solution to the bottom surface ends, push through the hole and pull down across the hole using your thumb hole. Then no-nail the previously cutout circle back into place. Filler as required when set.

Never had any issues with this technique!
 
I use batten as well.....one tip is to ensure the back edge of the hole is clean before fixing the battens,as any rubbish may prevent the battens sitting square on the ceiling,and thus the repacement plasterboard wont either. With care it's easy to achieve an invisible repair,on both smooth and artex ceilings.
 
as skelton,tho if nothing to screw into,use the bit of board you have cut out,make a small hole for a core either 1.5 or 2.5mm cable push thru and tie a knot,push the bit of board back up and use the cable to pull level,use a bit of caulk around the edges let it set and sand flush,then push the bit of cable back up thru the hole and fill the little hole left,bit of paint you'll never know you had been..
 
This may not be the fastest method, but it works for me ...

I have an old plastic template for marking out box cut-outs for plasterboard. I use the smaller size - about half wide of single switch - and mark rectangle in pencil. Then use very sharp (new blade) to cut out rectangle, angling blade inwards so inside surface is slightly smaller than outer surface.

Lift the 'door' of board out, then use caulk or no more nails on both sides of cut - wall and bit taken out. If it gets broken you can cut a small tab of board and stick this on the inside, to support the door when you put it back.

Once cable is in place I drop door back into hole and smear caulk over surface, smoothing down with a straight edge. the result is very smooth and often doesn't need sanding before being painted.

As I say, a bit nerdy and slow, but works okay for me.
 
Some good tips. However if plastering over afterwards run some board tape round the edges as this will prevent the plaster from cracking in a few months.
 
Use one or two lengths of wooden battening and place them into the hole you have made (making sure that they are longer than the hole is wide) and screw them securely into place either side of the hole. Then find the original piece of plasterboard that you cut out or cut a new piece to fit and screw into the secure wood above. Use bonding and/or skim coat to achive desired result :)

Does that make sense? If not, see my simple drawing below:

View attachment 12312

This is how i do it simple quick job done
 
Any plasterboard wall the above methods can be used. Got a stack load of 20 and 30mm japaned plasterboard screws on the van, come in handy for other jobs as well.
 

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