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Discuss kitchen appliances and ways to isolate in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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hi,

after some advice re isolation for under the counter kitchen sockets for appliances such as built in washing machines,dish washers,freezers ect. wondering what methods people use.

currently i am instaling a switch fused spur adjacent to a local double socket and spuring down to unswitched single socket. hence using the switch fused spur as the isolator. ive heard that having two 13 amp fuses in series is wrong re discrimination but cant see any problem,we wire fused spurs for additional sockets like that all the time am i missing something. this is ok for maybe one or two appliances but can become very crowded and look messy for a bank of under counter sockets. any other methods that people use ?? (for additions to exisitng circuit)

for new circuit installs ive thought of wiring 13amp sfu or 20amp DP switches directly into the ring main and feeding the socket from the load side, but can you actually wire a 20amp rated switch to a 32 amp protected ring main, i cant see a problem as the appliance is will never draw more than 13amps, just the rating of the switch that bothers me

another thought was to wire unfused spur from local socket to a switched socket located in an adjacent cupbord and plug appliance in there giving access for isolation, solving the problem of numerous sfu or dp switches.

any one see a problem with any of these or have better ideas or suggestions most welcome
 
all those methods are acceptable, the last one is the least favourite, though. if you have several appliances, you might consider a 4 way grid switch assembly with the switches engraved for each appliance.
why Tel?.....adjacent units to me are the way.....its either that or grid switch setup...or a load of FCUs at worktop height....yuk!!
 
Personally I hate to see a FCU feeding a socket for an appliance, what's the point? A FCU looks ugly compared to 20amp switch, and the FCU also costs more.
yes...its cost, appearance and pointless.....as most appliances have a BS1363 plugtop on em anyway....so its both fused AND electrical seperation is easily acheaved.....
 
Here another option for you..... find the biggest easily accessible cupboard and put all your fcu's and dp switches in there - label it up - sorted. Customer knows exactly where to go should there be a problem to turn it all off (they may have to move the odd box of cereals out the way first though!) :wink_smile:

PS - depending on the quality of the kitchen you may need to get your friendly kitchen fitter to put some extra mdf/ply of the back of the unit to strengthen it up before fein'ing it all out.

All the best,

Sy

[ElectriciansForums.net] kitchen appliances and ways to isolate[ElectriciansForums.net] kitchen appliances and ways to isolate
 
Here another option for you..... find the biggest easily accessible cupboard and put all your fcu's and dp switches in there - label it up - sorted. Customer knows exactly where to go should there be a problem to turn it all off (they may have to move the odd box of cereals out the way first though!) :wink_smile:

PS - depending on the quality of the kitchen you may need to get your friendly kitchen fitter to put some extra mdf/ply of the back of the unit to strengthen it up before fein'ing it all out.

All the best,

Sy

View attachment 14309View attachment 14310
don`t you mean the quality of the kitchen fitter?...
 
why Tel?.....adjacent units to me are the way.....its either that or grid switch setup...or a load of FCUs at worktop height....yuk!!

because part p of the building regs strongly recommend the fitting of wiring and accessories to the fabric of the building , which kitchen cupboards are not.

Remote switching of outlets only needs to be considered for integrated appliances , freestanding items that can be pulled out to reveal the socket dont require additional switching.
 
Here another option for you..... find the biggest easily accessible cupboard and put all your fcu's and dp switches in there - label it up - sorted. Customer knows exactly where to go should there be a problem to turn it all off (they may have to move the odd box of cereals out the way first though!) :wink_smile:

PS - depending on the quality of the kitchen you may need to get your friendly kitchen fitter to put some extra mdf/ply of the back of the unit to strengthen it up before fein'ing it all out.

All the best,

Sy

View attachment 14309View attachment 14310

Great 'till the wet boys stick an emmersion tank in. Found one with an alarm panel behind. Monkey trainer please (preferrably not Electrical Trainee provider)
 

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