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ed-ectrician

Had a job today. Bloke says 'my downlight in the bathroom doesnt work'

The muppet who installed the electrics has just stuck normal ip20 downlights in, including in zone one. At least they're SELV. Open one up and find this...

[ElectriciansForums.net] Botchit and scarper

Oh blimey that doesnt look healthy now does it. I reckoned it was moisture causing a dead short. The transformer was fine.

Went to the kitchen and, instead of junction box for under cabinet lights they just terminal blocked them and screwed terminal block to underside of cabinets. No- they were not selv, they were 230v!!

Mental the stuff people do. Do u think they are unaware or consciously doing it?!?!

Ed
 
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i'd say that was more like a poor connection than moisture. bear in mind , at 12V the current drawn is 20 X that at 240V. never mind the heat from the MR16 halogen. that's why i only fit 240V LED.
 
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230v led downlighters are a far better option now over the 12v equivalent. Less messing about on install, less heat build up and very efficient. Only downside is the light levels don't tend to be as good as 12v however i am sure this will and is improving.
 
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How have you found ELV LED lamps? Are they as good as GU10 LEDs?

Personally i recommend every customer invests in LEDs - halogens worry me, they run dangerously hot and i see too many idiots leaving all the fibreglass insulation in place or siting tgem flush with joists. LEDs save you 90% on energy and run at a reasonable temperature.

Ed
 
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and overheated lampholders, knackered transformers, huge electric bills ( coz. teenage dorters are in there for hours, then leave the lights on ). if you get decent 300lumen LEDs, the light output is comparable to 50watt halogens.
 
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ed-ectrician said:
How have you found ELV LED lamps? Are they as good as GU10 LEDs?

Personally i recommend every customer invests in LEDs - halogens worry me, they run dangerously hot and i see too many idiots leaving all the fibreglass insulation in place or siting tgem flush with joists. LEDs save you 90% on energy and run at a reasonable temperature.

Ed
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I've just replaced 4 x 35W 12V halogens in my bathroom with 4 x 7W GE LED 12V replacements. The light output greater than the halogens, and the beam spread is nearly identical. Colour of light is about the same, as they are warm white. Very impressed.

They're a bit expensive, but I wouldn't touch the cheap ones with a barge pole after the experiences I've had with them (either poor light output or just literally going bang). Daz
 
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ed-ectrician said:
How have you found ELV LED lamps? Are they as good as GU10 LEDs?

Personally i recommend every customer invests in LEDs - halogens worry me, they run dangerously hot and i see too many idiots leaving all the fibreglass insulation in place or siting tgem flush with joists. LEDs save you 90% on energy and run at a reasonable temperature.

Ed
Click to expand...
Any idiot who sites elv lighting slap bang next to joists or even attempting to notch out sections to accommodate fittings needs putting down. So potentially dangerous it is untrue.
I have upset a few customers whilst doing EICR and finding this and pointing out the fact they need to be re-positioned or removed altogether due to the scorch / burning marks on the wood along with the toasted loft insulation.
 
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ed-ectrician said:
It frightens me rattlehead!! Nuttier than squirrel sh!t
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I can't seem to grasp how these jobs get done like it and the people actually think that it is correct! Especially when the client then slides an installation Cert under your nose covering what has been done! I bet the cert copy gets hidden when the area engineer turns up once a year!
 
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if in doubt, i drill a series of 3mm holes. if i find a joist, i then move across a bit. once you've found a joist or 2, you can then replan the positions. then a few small blobs of filler. job's a good 'un.
 
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you call that termination buggered. look at this from boxing day call-out.

first thought loose connection, but on 2nd thoughts, am positive it's the 100A switch that's failed.
 

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