Extractor hood supply

saucyjack · Apr 15, 2014

Guys, I've discovered that the supply to the above extractor is actually via a plug and socket which is covered by the upper (square) section of the hood. The fuse has gone in said plug (due to a bulb blowing in the hood), and the only way to access the plug is to remove the whole lower pyramid section of the hood from the wall, then drop down the upper square section, consequently disturbing any finishing filler around the upper edge, along with a line of grout where the lower section meets the edge of the tiles; all this to change a bloody fuse!! Sooo, does anyone know of any reason, regs-wise etc. why I shouldn't put in an FCU, probably to the left of the upper square part of the hood? I don't believe this area gets excessively hot, due to the presence of the hood itself, and although maybe not the most aesthetic of solutions, it's got to be better for my client than removing the whole shebang when a bulb blows for instance!! Not sure who installed this, but it's a nightmare.
Cheers in advance for any advice

Darkwood · Apr 15, 2014

Because it will look absolutely .....!.. can you not run the flex up and over into the cupboard for an accessible discreet spur.

saucyjack · Apr 15, 2014

Totally agree about how it would look, but not sure the householder's are gonna be on for me messing with their newly installed cupboards. I can certainly ask the question, but I think I know what the reaction will be! :vanish:

GLENNSPARK · Apr 15, 2014

see if its fed from an undercupboard socket....

if it is then fix an FCU next to the socket feeding it...

then its connector block & chocbox behind that stainless hood...

saucyjack · Apr 15, 2014

The socket is actually behind the upper square part of the hood unfortunately, which is the issue. The whole kitchen was done from scratch, and the installers have just covered over the bloody thing with the hood section, with no thought as to any kind of meaningful future access. Now I'm trying to figure the best way overall to have any fusing reasonably accessible after the event!

GLENNSPARK · Apr 15, 2014

saucyjack said:
The socket is actually behind the upper square part of the hood unfortunately, which is the issue. The whole kitchen was done from scratch, and the installers have just covered over the bloody thing with the hood section, with no thought as to any kind of meaningful future access. Now I'm trying to figure the best way overall to have any fusing reasonably accessible after the event!

well Kev kitchen often does this.

what you will find is that square hood comes off..

there should be 2 screws...1 each side...their at the top so go careful on ladders and dont overreach...

remove the screws POZ#2...the top section of that hood should slide down....you can then gain access into it ....replace fuse with a 5A...

saucyjack · Apr 15, 2014

With you on the removal of the two screws dude, sorted that this morning, but there is still no way that the upper section will then slide down to remove it, there is too much of it in the ceiling; unfortunately the bottom part has to come off to then allow the upper section to lower enough, to then remove. And besides which, even if the top section did come off as easily as I'd like, it's been filled around its' upper edges, so this finished edging would still need to be disturbed each time the fuse needed replacing. I do appreciate the info mate, but I still think that the ultimate solution is to move the socket/ add an FCU (irritatingly!)

GLENNSPARK · Apr 15, 2014

saucyjack said:
With you on the removal of the two screws dude, sorted that this morning, but there is still no way that the upper section will then slide down to remove it, there is too much of it in the ceiling; unfortunately the bottom part has to come off to then allow the upper section to lower enough, to then remove. And besides which, even if the top section did come off as easily as I'd like, it's been filled around its' upper edges, so this finished edging would still need to be disturbed each time the fuse needed replacing. I do appreciate the info mate, but I still think that the ultimate solution is to move the socket/ add an FCU (irritatingly!)

the back of that square hood has a return each side...its that...thats caught behind the bracket thats screwed to the wall..prize it gently away each side...and it should come off.....

Deservices · Apr 15, 2014

If they have just cut the box section to size. Then this still comes off in general as it sits on top of the extractor. So a small bent screwdriver slide in and pull to the side. Also to make easier cut slot all around the top of the box so it slides up a bit then off.

Octopus · Apr 15, 2014

You can just tell the install wasn't done by a competent spark!

I've just installed a hood in our refurb - there is a FCU in the back of the adjacent cupboard fitted with a 3a fuse and a socket in the hood and the plug has a 13A fuse. My thought is that the 3A in the cupboard should blow first!

saucyjack · Apr 15, 2014

Well, I really appreciate all the advice/info guys, and thanks to all for the quick responses. I'll have another look at it tomorrow, and see if I can't remove the top section without worrying about the lower part, and go from there.

Darkwood · Apr 15, 2014

Murdoch said:
You can just tell the install wasn't done by a competent spark!

I've just installed a hood in our refurb - there is a FCU in the back of the adjacent cupboard fitted with a 3a fuse and a socket in the hood and the plug has a 13A fuse. My thought is that the 3A in the cupboard should blow first!

It don't work like that Murdoch in a fault their is very little little - early no discrimination between the 3fuse an 13amp fuse and to be honest only poor partial discrim' to the 32amp mcb covering the ring if on one.

I would in future do as you have with the cupboard then run a flex to the cooker-hood and use a flex inline plug and socket, Then any tripped mcb or fuse to be changed is easily accessible ...

How many times has a fault blown the 30 / 32amp OL device leaving the plug top the fault went through with intact fuse, I know Ive seen it loads and been asked why plenty times.

Octopus · Apr 15, 2014

darkwood said:
It don't work like that Murdoch in a fault their is very little little - early no discrimination between the 3fuse an 13amp fuse and to be honest only poor partial discrim' to the 32amp mcb covering the ring if on one.

I would in future do as you have with the cupboard then run a flex to the cooker-hood and use a flex inline plug and socket, Then any tripped mcb or fuse to be changed is easily accessible ...

How many times has a fault blown the 30 / 32amp OL device leaving the plug top the fault went through with intact fuse, I know Ive seen it loads and been asked why plenty times.

You may have a point, but I can still get our chimney off by removing 2 screws anyway!

Badged01 · Apr 15, 2014

Murdoch said:
My thought is that the 3A in the cupboard should blow first!

Maybe, just maybe!

Octopus · Apr 15, 2014

Badged01 said:
Maybe, just maybe!

Anyway I've covered all the bases:

accessible DP isolation if the circuit trips the RCBO,
he hood can be removed without any changes to the finished décor
and having a socket in the wall means to remove the hood is a simple case of loosening 2 screws, unplugging hood and slipping off the extractor vent!