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hardwiring cooker straight into 45 amp isolator

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aaroncrisp1983

If I intall a 45 amp cooker isolator inside the kitchen cupboard can I come straight out of that and hhardwire into the cooker? So I dont have to install a cooker outletplate as there not.much room.behind.
 
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As far as I know there is no regulation saying you absolutely must fit a cooker outlet. It is more of a convenience thing for should you need to change the cooker. What kind of cooker is it? Is it a unit that fits in the kitchen units with a seperate gas hob? If so you'll probably find it comes with a plug top. Chop the plug off and fit an unswitched fused spur. Doesn't take up much room
 
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If you've the space for an isolator switch in a cupboard, you've space for an outlet plate. Iso's exist for a reason, especially for domestic cookers. Whilst there's no specific regs that require you to have an OCPD > ISO > OUTLET arrangement, it's been done that way for decades for very sensible reasons. Namely, that if the darn thing catches fire you want to be able to turn it off straight away without having to spend five minutes ploughing through coats and vacuum cleaners to find the consumer unit under the stairs. Therefore, if you have an ISO, you also want a more convenient means of making a connection to it - hence a cooker outlet plate (which doesn't have to be fitted behind the space for the oven, it could be another cupboard away).
 
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bigdavs83 said:
As far as I know there is no regulation saying you absolutely must fit a cooker outlet. It is more of a convenience thing for should you need to change the cooker. What kind of cooker is it? Is it a unit that fits in the kitchen units with a seperate gas hob? If so you'll probably find it comes with a plug top. Chop the plug off and fit an unswitched fused spur. Doesn't take up much room
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I was going to hardwire the cooker into the isolator which will be in the cupboard and plug the hob into the isolator which has a socket on. I think this is ok.
 
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it's OK, but the thing that has not as yet been mentioned is this:

when and if you want to change/service the cooker, that will mean isolating at the CU MCB in order to disconnect from the isolator,which is only single pole isolation, whereas if you had fitted a cooker outlet, all you need to do is isolate with the cooker isolator for safe isolation of both L and N.
 
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I was going to hardwire the cooker into the isolator which will be in the cupboard and plug the hob into the isolator which has a socket on. I was not going to cut the plug of the hob. I was just going to make a hole for it.
 
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aaroncrisp1983 said:
I was going to hardwire the cooker into the isolator which will be in the cupboard and plug the hob into the isolator which has a socket on. I was not going to cut the plug of the hob. I was just going to make a hole for it.
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yes we understand aron, however we have given you our advice mate and you will have to decide what to do, I think you have made your mind up anyhow by the look of your replies so we need not reply anymore with advice on this subject.
 
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Im confused here. I thought it was a case of the cable comes out of the isolator and feeds straight into the cooker therefore bypassing the "elephants nose" as the OP felt there was not enough room. This to me seems ok not best practice but no regs stating otherwise. Now we have a hob being plugged into the socket alongside the 45amp dp switch. All seems like a bit unnecessary and untidy now rather than just fitting it all where required. Remember a job done right first time means you are not back at it three months down the line
 
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i had myths in the wardrobe. a couple of mythballs sorted them out.

[ElectriciansForums.net] hardwiring cooker straight into 45 amp isolator
 
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If by cooker you mean oven, check the rating and if pre-flexed that your breaker is suitable - It's usually the hob (if electric) that pulls the most so that might want looking at - ask the guys here. In answer to your question, there's nothing 'wrong' with doing it as said above, just make sure it's suitable for the environment.
 
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Nothing wrong with going straight from an Isolator to the cooker, however as said above if someone wants to disconnect it then they would need to whilst one side of the isolator was live or turn the mcb off. The benefit of the Cooker outlet plate is that someone can just switch off at the isolator and then disconnect.
 
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jaypp said:
If by cooker you mean oven, check the rating and if pre-flexed that your breaker is suitable - It's usually the hob (if electric) that pulls the most so that might want looking at - ask the guys here. In answer to your question, there's nothing 'wrong' with doing it as said above, just make sure it's suitable for the environment.
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i dont know the rating but the induction hob at home is on a 50amp breaker.

there are plenty of 7kw induction hobs on the market (standard 4 spot hob)
 
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shanky887614 said:
i dont know the rating but the induction hob at home is on a 50amp breaker.

there are plenty of 7kw induction hobs on the market (standard 4 spot hob)
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Cheers Shanky for giving an example of what I was getting at, being that the cooker (oven I think) if pre-flexed might not be suitable to hard wire to isolator depending on breaker
 
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jaypp said:
Cheers Shanky for giving an example of what I was getting at, being that the cooker (oven I think) if pre-flexed might not be suitable to hard wire to isolator depending on breaker
Click to expand...

Why would being pre-flexed make it unsuitable for connection to an isolator?

Bearing in mind that the flex only needs to be sized according to the load on the end if it, not the full current rating of the OCPD.
 
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