Connecting both white and green wires to the W terminal of the thermostat (also disconnect the yellow wire) helps a lot. Now, my heater system run based on the schedule programmed in the thermostat. One thing I noticed: after the furnace (and the fan) get shut off for a few minutes, the fan...
Doing more research, I learned that the issue is in my old furnace system. When FAN is set to AUTO, the thermostat will leave it up to the furnace system to control the fan. This involves, inside the furnace system, temperature sensor, limit switch, etc... that turn ON the fan at certain speed...
As a second thought, I am not really familiar with how the HVAC fan works. Probably, in fan AUTO mode, the thermostat does not turn ON the fan, instead some controller board in the furnace turn ON the fan when the gas is burning. This is just my wild guess.
I replaced an old (mercury type) thermostat with a new Honeywell thermostat model RTH2300B.
The wiring is quite straight forward based on the manual: red to R, white to W, yellow to Y and green to G.
There is no C so the 24VAC common is not connected. I have to install 2 AAA batteries per...
The new transformer cannot fit in the place where the old one is. So, I left the old one at the same place after disconnecting it from the 120V input, its outputs also disconnected. The new one is installed on the side of a metal switch box (where other transformers are), I ensure that its hot...
I accidentally found this connector at local Home Depot. Here is the ads. Its name is Tap Splice connector.
Can handle up to 300 Volts, great for adding pigtails. In typical usage, one wire is long and one wire is short. The connector connects the tip of the short one to the middle of the long...
Correct, these transformers cannot draw up to 15A. I will also add a 3A fuse to the primary. So, two fuses for this transformer to protect it. It is very annoying when it is toasted.
I will add the fuse to the secondary then as it seems to make sense to me. When the 24 VAC line get shorted somehow (by accident), then the fuse inline on the secondary will blow and the two wires of the secondary are no longer connected, the primary remains intact in this case.
If I know the...
Eureka, I finally remove the transformer. Carefully mark where its black and white wires were connected with black tape and white tape on the wire nuts. These are simply hot and neutral wires in any electrical box.
The primary winding is indeed OPEN. A simple test by connecting it to 120 VAC...
Thanks, I will double check my understanding with one of the 3 working 18 VAC transformers. These are for door bell, light for house number in front of garage, and one for ???
Just measure the secondary of these 3 18 VAC transformers, all measure 6 Ohms. From my understanding, 5 and 6 Ohms are...
Still trying to remove the transformer to access the primary.
A second thought: 5 Ohms for secondary is too low as it means 24V / 5 = 4.8A current going thru it. These transformer uses 3A fuse if they have one.
I will order a new one anyway, it only costs around 20+$. Will make sure to add a fuse.
First, I verified that the new thermostat setting was for electric, supposed to be gas. My fault here. That was why it does not control the furnace properly. Anyway, I lost 24 VAC. Today, I remove the wires going into the two top terminals at the transformer, shown by yellow arrows, RED on the...
I replaced a very old thermostat, that still uses mercury for ON / OFF with a Honeywell digital thermostat.
The only issue with this old thermostat is it does not turn off the fan automatically after the gas furnace is OFF when room temperature reaches the setpoint.
The connection appears to be...
Thanks for the suggestion. That is pretty easy to do. I already put the wire nut on the wires in the J-box. I need to do the same on the other end (in attic). However, does the other end need to be inside a J-box (to be added) ? I guess that it has to.
Thanks so much for all advises. These make me feel good about that pipe.
The reason that the J-box outside the garage has no electricity its ROMEX cable has been cut off on the attic. I can see a long section still stapled to the joist. I verified it is the one. I doubt that I could remove it...
There are some kind of device plugged into any outlet giving 4 or 6 receptacles, even a housewife can install it. The only trouble is cosmetic, this device sticks out of the wall by about 1 inch.
I uses it a few places in my home.
I have an outlet outdoor, supported straight up by a galvanized pipe. It has only black and white wires, no ground. The galvanized pipe is extremely rusted and breaks exposing wires inside the pipe !!! On top of that, it has no electricity either.
Please note my home is ~40 yrs old.
I tracked it...
Scotchlocks appears to be the correct name. I search the Web for this name and yes, the picture matches.
Here is a better one, taken by standing up on a ladder.
In my 40+ yrs old home, almost all outlets have this kind of pigtails instead of using wire nuts except the last one in the circuit...
I like to buy the blue connector shown in the picture below to pigtail wire.
I do not know its name and could not find it at local Home Depot.
What is this type of connector called ?
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