It's awesome stuff, I install it somewhat frequently for hygiene areas. Always looks great and is easily cleaned. The polished trunking looks really cool. Got some 50mm SS conduit to install next week, the price of the larger conduits is eye watering though! An electric bender and threader helps...
I played with that stuff once, didn't really like it. Rather do it properly. That and got to justify buying an electric threader. Useful for joining into an old conduit in a tight location where you cant thread it though.
Having seen the attempts by some fire alarm companies at installing steel conduit that's probably a good thing. I saw one company recently fitting conduit to boxes and couplers by grinding the outside of the tube thin and hammering it in instead of threading it...
In the shop we used to heat the elements with a blowtorch starting in the centre and slowly working towards the terminals to drive out moisture in elements that had been in the stores for years and failed insulation test after initial normal heating.
I took a load of 28W 2D bulkhead lights down recently that were full to the brim with water from a burst pipe. The fittings were running happily under water, though the water was very hot from being heated electrode boiler style.
I used to do appliances as my first job, every built in dishwasher I ever installed always came with stainless fixing screws in the installation pack. The cheap one I fitted a few months ago also came with stainless fixing screws.
I really don't like the single insulating coming into the fitting, through a bare metal hole, on an un-earthed metal enclosure. Are there connector blocks behind the fitting or something to join the flex to the building wiring?
Looks like a high resistance joint somewhere, the voltage plummeting when a load is applied. Why you would test that by connecting a shabby extension lead directly to the meter I'm not sure.
What are you measuring the overload with? The values might be too low to be accurately measured with a multi-meter. I assume you have mains at the compressor but no rotation due to the faulty PTC? All the faults I've repaired on these have been on the PCB.
Apologies if I'm teaching grandma to...
I just find evo easier to setup and operate than hive or nest, no weird faults either, it just works. It also has adaptive learning and pre-start, though I don't bother with that as this modern, insulated house heats quickly, and window open mode. I also like that once it is set you can just...
That's just a standard timer switch. The 2 red wires to the timer are the switch contacts, the 2 blue wires are power to the clock. The 'orange' wire just connects the permanent live to both the common contact of the switch and to the clock motor. The black wire is neutral.
The terminals are...
If there is a separate timer for hot water pump that could be for secondary return. would need more photos of the parts of the system to confirm though.
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