I've tried in the past with Fusebox, the knockouts came loose I'd either use a gland reducer, or put several cables in a larger size gland. Not much help if you want to gland a number of SWA cables, then perhaps fit a metal plate over the holes with the holes you want drilled or cut.
Quite likely the apperture is not exactly the right size for a fusebox kit, but surely it can be enlarged a little or closed off a little as needed. I did one 2 weeks ago doing exactly that - sounds like someone doesn't want the bother- perhaps find an electrican who is not looking for excuses...
Fusebox make a surround bracket so you can mount their consumer units recessed into a wall, and you can adjust how much of the box is recessed, to suit the depth available.
For example, see: FuseBox AFMF14 14 Module Flush Mounting Frame Kit -...
You can find the misconnected brown by trial & error as littlespark says above. The one brown that is unlikely to be in the wrong place is the one in the same sleeve as the blue sleeved brown one - that is the switch drop. It could be any of the other 3. And again, be sure to isolate the circuit...
One of the browns is supposed to be the switched live for the light that stays on, connected with the blue sleeved brown. Instead, you've connected it to the permanent live (which should be 3 browns connected, not the 4 you have).
I know this is not quite what you are referring to, but I block any member who has a profile that includes anything dancing, jiggling, buzzing about etc. I can't stand that sort of stuff, either in posts or profiles, and find it very distracting and also unprofessional.
Could you not make something? For example a thin metal sheet (aluminium for ease of working) a bit bigger than the hole (say 180 x 120 mm), with a 100mm diameter hole cut in the middle, then a 100mm dia short length of duct with a flange bolted to the sheet.
Or even something like this just...
Don't know about NAPIT, but with NICEIC (and ELECSA before), I have the impression a lot is down to the assessor. I'd have expected for something like accidentally the wrong RCD type, a photo of the corrected installation would suffice, assuming everything else is OK, that would fit with their...
Once in a while I have to re-accept cookies, and it is soo painful, having to scroll down a long list and uncheck/decline everything. Most sites just have a simple short list that can be declined in one or two clicks, I can't imagine why there has to be such a long and tedious list.
I like the stools round the counter in the inside photo - if anyone else is being served, it implies you are going to have to wait a while. Last time I was in CEF, there was some joker thinking aloud very slowly what he might need for a job item by item, only one person serving, someone else...
Removing a room of downlight converters, not only did they convert the large ceiling holes, but also the connections ... by means of the MR16 lampholder!
I've used Hager Sollysta in one recent rewire (customer specified the range) and was actually quite pleased with them both how they looked and how to install.
So was this room originally wired with 2 light fittings, one on each switch, then converted at some point to downlights? If so, the junction boxes typically might be close to the orginal 2 lighting points. You can often see evidence of old lights in the plasterwork, assuming the ceiling was not...
Tripping at a specific time suggests something switching at that time, and the one thing I immediately think of is an off-peak supply. Do you have that, or used to, or does the meter support it (for something now removed, like storage heaters)?
There are occaisional reports of smart meters...
Is the back of the alcove an outside wall, or internal? Just wondering if you can get power in from the back, either from another room, or even an external cable?
You need to match the current, 350mA is quite a common value. The voltage will adjust to drive that current through the fixture, so long as the driver is capable of it.
A little higher wattage driver will just run at the 6W, but be aware a much higher wattage driver will be capable of putting...
The current guidance for assessment visits for Domestic Installers includes this statement: "Domestic Installer Applicants: A consumer unit change on its own or minor works are not acceptable for an applicant assessment."
Discussing this only a few weeks ago at my last assessment, I was told...
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