I would code 3 the no RCD protection on outside lights but if you think the lights will fill with water I would code 2 the lights as they do not have the correct IP ratting
My certificate software has minor works cert that covers up to 5 alterations so if no new circuits are installed you could use one of them but as others have said it sounds like the work is notifiable
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-2-gang-dp-switched-plug-socket-brushed-stainless-steel-with-white-inserts-5-pack/68831 You could use these, mind you they are made by LAP ?
Make 2 Vs out of some wood then clamp them in a vice. Not tried it myself but that's what I would do . I have metal V blocks that I made a collage that I find handy for clamping tube to saw it
There is no possibility of the screws becoming live, there no exposed metal part within the plastic back box. So even if there was an exposed live part touching the plastic back box it would never be in contact with the screws . So no the caps over the screws are not necessary but they are...
I rap a good layer of insulation tape round it the cover with heat shrink. Just remember to slide the heat shrink over one end of the cable before crimping it together :)
I did use the hager MF junction boxes but have now started to use the wagos push fit connectors and boxes as they works out cheaper and are quicker to install
Sounds to me that the prisable is a good idea .The main time you need the fan on is when the shower is on . If there is a window in the room you would not need the light on to have a shower, so if the fan was controlled by the light switch it may not be used. Much better that the fan comes on...
No I think I've been reading wrong. I was not thinking about fault current. as I read the over current part and did not make the connection. So it is saying if the over current device will disconnect connect the supply if there is a fault current then we can use the 0.4s value if not which as...
Just to add for TT system if all the bonding is in place and there is over current protection for the circuit (so most installations) then the TN disconnection values are used.
You can get 63 amp industrial sockets
1598043950
Just to add the disconnect time are the same as the 17th for fixed equipment and distribution circuits it's just for socket outlets that have changed .
I don't know London prices but sounds a bit high I would get some other quotes edit just to add You may not need a consumer change if you can get rcbos for you current one
Agree with Westwood item 1 it a code 3 all day long and code 2 for the others £718 pounds sounds bit expensive though . Do you know what work they are doing for that?
You say all terminal are tight but the connection in the main head or meter could be loose. I've seen lost neutral show up as reverse polarity on some testers
Sounds to me as a guess that you have all the neutrals in the same bus bar or there is a link between to the two neutral bars that requires removing. As others have said testing is the answer.
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