The regs don't require you to replace a plug with unsleeved pins. They are just not allowed to be reused on new installations. I would not replace it myself.
Be careful using shaver sockets. They have very poor regulation and can go up to around 280v on very low load such as a phone charger. If your charger is rated 100 to 240v use the 110v socket which on low load is around 130v.
Not true. The fuse/breaker is to protect the cable not what is on the end of it. The smallest cable allowed on such accessories is rated at more than 6 amps.
Lowering the voltage does not in general save money. Heating loads go down but need to run longer. Modern lighting loads use switch mode techniques and are constant watts. Motor loads could stall but most likely draw more current to maintain torque.
The US uses half our voltage but their energy...
Are you assuming they are live from the wire colours? You can't. Electricity does not know what colour the wire is.
What you have is a typical loop in at switch circuit. The 2 wires in COM are live in and live out to next switch. In L1 you have a switched wire to the light. If the light stays...
They are NOT transformers, they are switch mode supplies.
They are NOT compatible with LEDs, they are for halogen lights.
They have a minimum load of 20W, a single LED is less than this.
They are NOT necessary, just replace your lamps and holders with 240v LED types and get rid of the switch...
When filament lamps blow they do tend to trip (6 amp) MCBs. I guess if the oven happens to be drawing full load when the lamp blew the additional lamp current added to the oven current could trip a 32 amp MCB.
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