I have used active RCD's in a FCU not as a RCD but as a no volt release for items like grinders. Cheaper than a proper starter with no volt release.
I also have a metal clad RCD 10 mA socket I had got with idea of using outside, but never got around to fitting it, mainly as I found test button...
That seems rather odd, are you sure he was an electrician? There seems to be very little in the iboost to cause a fuse to blow, far more likely down to the immersion heater, however if an immersion heater fails more likely it would trip the RCD or RCBO than the fuse, unless you are in a very old...
I also have Nest Gen 3, however it does not connect to the TRV's, it should have done, it seems the same TRV used with Energenie's own wall thermostat would fire the boiler if current under target, however I don't have option of hard wired, and setting the wall thermostat is suppose to set TRV's...
I have to admit my iboost+ has not been as good as expected, although not the fault of the iboost+ it is simply the immersion heater is not long enough.
The point is that now in the summer the central heating boiler will not be used, the iboost+ does nothing in the winter, only the summer, as...
At the moment it depends on the weather on how well the central heating works, the main problem is the Nest Gen 3 thermostat only measures the temperature in the hall, and it turns off boiler some times when living room not warm enough, but can't move Nest into living room, as one there is also...
I have an iboost+ and it does seem to work well, however my immersion heater is too short, so really I need the heater swapping for a longer one.
I found I needed to adjust the point where it kicks in, seems the CT coil was too close to another CT coil and they were interfering with each other...
An immersion heater can fail due to build up of lime, and as an electrician I would not want to change one, in fact I have asked a plumber to change mine, as it is too short, and does not heat up much water, there is some cross over, but not sure if a plumber or electrician is the best option...
Oh there is a blast from the past, they were used in the main to get correct voltage for fluorescent tubes as with the old wire wound ballast a small over voltage could result in power being used to nearly double.
However with electronic ballasts that problem vanished, and most other items now...
The FCU and two x double sockets are fed from the inverter, I tried fitting a RCD FCU but it tripped as soon as the boiler kicked in so was removed again, as yet not tested earth leakage, but never had a problem when fed from the RCBO so assume some thing to do with inverter supply, however...
My son has my loop impedance tester, and RCD tester, should not need to test myself, should be able to read the results on the insulation certificate or minor works when they arrive, I have the compliance certificate, but nothing else as yet, so can't read the test results yet.
I will fit a RCD...
Where I work it was at one point start up units, and as a result there are I think 4 x 3 phase supplies, the cost to remove them was silly, so we are now using three of them, one general for building, one for an EV charging point, and one for a compressor.
We have considered the TN-C-S supply...
I decided to get solar panels, the inverter instructions say one can use type AC, so the existing 14 x RCBO CU seems OK, may be a good idea to fit type A in the future, but if following what is says in wiring matters should have type F for my inverter drive washing machine, as if that will ever...
I can understand not wanting to knock in a meter of earth rod, but to detect loss of PEN it really only needs to be 6 inches. However
If in a garage why does it need any loss of PEN detection?
I have my mother's old scooter, now with new batteries after old ones failed, and I had a problem with the overload trip, which failed, this happened at the bottom of a long incline, lucky I was only testing the scooter and did not rely on it, as needed to push it home.
Remember unless disabled...
It has been a problem for years, I as others have said have fitted class II, and in the case of my mothers kitchen paid way over the odds for a class II 2D lamps, and when it arrived I am sure it was the same lamp sold as a class I but with a sticker on it.
I remember in that kitchen the first...
The visual inspection is the most important bit, however one does also need to electrically test and know what you are doing. I remember doing a mag mount drill, clearly marked with double square on drill to show class II, but the base was clearly class I and it seems it had been tested many...
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