Regarding the light switch, if it's a TNCS earthing arrangement then it would work fine without bothering any fuses, but it would become a problem as soon as an RCD is fitted, very very dodgy though.
My advice would be to go for a proven and reliable Downflow Heater such as the Dimplex FX20. No remote or programmable functions, just a simple pull-switch. But they'll warm a bathroom within 5 minutes and automatically switch off after 30 minutes if you forget.
Less than a metre, they go straight through to DP isolator in the external meter box. Considering the testing was completed at 3pm and the board install was complete including the labelling by 4.45pm I'd say it's not bad at all. Let's see a pic of one of your boards now ?š
Here's a picture of a Fusebox CU with compact RCBOs recently installed by me , this wouldn't cost an awful lot more than the dual RCD Hager board you specified and is good quality. I think how a CU is fitted/connected up gives a fair idea of an electricians attitude to their work and any decent...
Whatever you do don't plug that in until the plug has been replaced properly with a new one ! It's potentially lethal and I'm amazed you even had to ask !
I'd like to know the true figures for overheating Consumer Units resulting in the spread of fire in a home, there are many warning signs before that stage would be reached, in my view dodgy connections under floorboards or in lofts have resulted in far more fires over the years.
At no time have I advocated a huge cable entry hole, and assumptions are being made constantly. The vast majority of CUs that I replace are spaced off on small battens to facilitate all cables entering through the rear knockout. So in fact there is no hole going into a cavity at all. But when...
Totally irrelevant. And there is nothing in the Regs about making a CU 'airtight' , if anything that's counter productive as we're told to install in such a way to minimise the build up of heat or words to that effect.
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