There's also a slim chance it could have been a small arc escaping from between the switch and plastic surround as that switch would quite possibly be around 30 years old.
It's very difficult if not impossible to estimate the time that a job will take without actually surveying it, but in this case my guess would be a full day.
Always have gone slightly downhill from inside to out, and always try to do the last inch or two without the hammer action, gives a nice clean hole, just like @HappyHippyDad and his electric bog. 🤣
Just out of interest, how would you wire an outside socket without passing a cable through the wall from inside to out - and even in a bungalow no one in their right mind would run a cable right down the wall outside in a conduit from the loft when there's a nicely placed existing 'back to back'...
No problem at all HHD , I don't mind a bit of banter, and just one more tip - in really cold weather get the Mrs to use the loo first, you then have a pre-warmed bog seat. 🤣
The lighting circuit will be unsuitable, I'd say it'll draw around 1.5kW when heating water, maybe even a little more. So a FCU from a convenient ring or even 16a radial back to the CU if nearby as an alternative.
Edit - I do believe that some people have more money than sense - what's wrong...
I just had a look on the IET 'Model forms' site and looked in particular at the new EICR including Amendment 2 - looks like it was only added today ?
Well guess what - it's more long-winded than ever with the test results schedule now spread over two pages. Don't get me wrong I'm all for doing...
Sorry Mike, I was imagining the fixed wiring cable coming out through a wall hence the suggestion of a small weatherproof connection box. So in the circumstances you've found a very good method.
Mike, although these seem a good product and certainly fine for the job you're doing [I assume your new LED floods have a flex already connected ?] I'd use a small weatherproof box fixed near the light instead , just think it would be a bit neater ?
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