I'm not sure if you mean that the box with the feed and light cables is itself a switch position, but if it is, it needs to be an intermediate. The one on the other side of the landing is an intermediate, while the top and bottom positions are 2-ways. You can use either 'conventional' wiring (PL...
That configuration looks correct to me. Does the windlass operate correctly from its own control or if you manually bridge common to either direction wire?
If the windlass itself works OK but fails to respond to the remote, maybe the resistance of the remote output contacts is too high to...
There are two ratings printed on them because current ratings are defined in different ways by different authorities. The 20A rating is as per UL approval in North America, 32A as per IEC which is what we usually work to in the UK.
However, if the joint has to be maintenance free to BS5733...
If anything is likely to be giving a 0.1 meg fault it's the cooker. But clearly HHD tested around the lighting and socket circuits carefully, hence discovering the interconnection between them, so it seems most unlikely that he mis-identified which circuit(s) had low IR. I agree it's a bit...
I would have thought a ballast with 6 wires was a multi-lamp ballast where the yellows are the commons. Therefore each tube would connect between either red and yellow or blue and yellow. What ballast is it, electronic or magnetic? Can you post a pic or give a spec? Is it rated for single tube...
I was referring to a pair of TL12+ that I have had since my teens and have followed me around everywhere I have lived. These have the 120R 5W wirewound smoother. There are also two Stereo 20s one of which is also in the room with me but not in use, a couple of original germanium stereo 30s and a...
Presumably heat from the MOV is conducted to the tab from which the sprung link desolders itself. So rather than detecting an overcurrent, it is actually sensing when the MOV itself has been thermally over-stressed. For a very brief surge event the heat dissipation is adiabatic which gives this...
What is the main task being automated here? Is it primarily an interactive index to find relevant content in the regs book, or is it expected to be authoritative enough to answer questions directly?
If there were continuity you could test from any earthed point to any other earthed point and read the resistance because all CPCs should be connected together as you say. However, as we suspect there is no continuity, and some induced voltage exists, your continuity tester might object to...
Even better. This not only gives lots of elbow-room for total loading but spreads the earth leakage between two circuits reducing the chance of nuisance leakage trips. I always think of it as a bit of a luxury to have the two circuits, having been brought up in the tradition of 'a 30A ring is...
I don't know what you mean by this. A 32A circuit can supply 32A whether it is run as a ring in 2.5mm² or a radial in 4.0mm². The choice of cable configuration is a matter of convenience for a particular location or socket layout, but it makes no difference to the usage or available current...
No, it doesn't work like that. If the supply is insufficient, everything will still work but the fuse will blow / circuit breaker will trip if too much is used at once. 40A is quite sufficient for all normal domestic cooking needs, even 32A total is usually sufficient, so don't worry about that...
Unconnected wires that lie alongside energised ones will show a voltage to earth because of capacitive and resistive leakage between them. Even with wiring in perfect condition, a small amount of current transfers capacitively through the insulation from line to CPC (earth conductor) which would...
Good spot @LukeD (post 14), first unit has proper CE mark, second one dubious. Of course it could just be that their subcontractor doesn't have the right artwork and the dimmer is completely genuine, but I wouldn't be letting that out on one of our products because I would hope that savvy...
If you have complete headlight assemblies with a ballast that runs from the car's (nominal) 12V system, then all you need is an alternative source of 12-14 volts DC. There are many off-the shelf power supply units (PSUs) that will produce this from 120V AC outlet power. Some are completely...
The melted plastic alongside the switch mechanism, suggests that the heat came from the contacts, not the wiring terminals. High resistance or arcing could be caused by lack of pressure e.g. something mechanically broken, jammed or dirty, or faulty manufacture of the contacts themselves. I agree...
That was my first thought too. Either a one-shot thermal fuse that has to be replaced after operation, or more likely a self-resetting bimetal one that has simply failed. Or possibly the normal thermostat. Or a burnt connector, which is not uncommon in appliances. Sorry, not much help.
Some cooking equipment gets coated with an insulating film of grease that evaporates from the food and gets burnt on. You need a sharp probe and plenty of pressure. The moving grilles of toasters are probably not effectively earthed,, nor external chromed bezels and crumb trays. You might have...
Remember there are not only different sizes but different grades of carbon. With something safety-critical like an ABS pump I would not accept less than the original component or at the very least, a part from a recognised manufacturer specified for that motor. Something that 'seems to fit OK'...
This is different though. It's not a line from one circuit paired with a neutral from another, it's two different neutrals connected together. It's not something you would do even as a bodge and might be a true fault e.g. a screw through two cables.
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