Since 2017 this has been a requirement in the Republic of Ireland. In addition to an insulated earth conductor it must be sized the same as the phase conductors.
https://www.wesco.ie/news/new-twin--earth-wiring-rules.html
Or decided to take their metal knitting needles in there. I was trying to make a sensible risk assessment.
Silicone is not conductive snd - in any case - why touch it while it’s wet?
But we are now talking about resolution of the issue. I thought you were doing an EICR?
Hmm. Should be fitted with a tails shroud (or a dob of silicone).
Doesnt meet IP4x but you ain't going to get your finger in there. In the real World - C3.
The old thread, that our friend hijacked, is here 2 dimmers on 2 way switching - https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/2-dimmers-on-2-way-switching.149495/page-2
Did you not read the thread that you hijacked? The answer in 2018 was no, and it is still no using the (probably) standard dimmers that your client has bought (don't you hate it when they do that!).
I'll not repeat the thread above. But, in short, you need specific master slave dimmers...
A fire alarm system is a very different thing altogether.
To meet Scotland regs you need SMOKE alarms with HEAT alarm in kitchen.
Think there’s a requirement for them to be interlinked too?
Why on earth did you shoehorn a BG RCD into a Wylex board?
There’s a fault, the RCD is telling you that. It’s not the RCD. Put the right one back.
You need an Insulation Resistance tester and someone who knows how to use it.
A competent electrician is your best bet.
Just changing things...
Whatever, the apprentice is an employee like any other. This excellent guide will tell you what steps to take. Get it wrong and he/she could sue for wrongful dismissal.
https://www.anapprenticeship.co.uk/sack-apprentice.html
The ESI thermostat will work
BUT you need to install the base unit next to the boiler wiring centre (I assume you have one?) not at the existing thermostat location.
The wiring centre will have all of the connections you need.
The Vent-Axia Svara fan might be a good choice. It has Light, Humidity Sensor & Overrun Timer and delayed start and can be App Controlled via smart phone or tablet.
https://www.extractorfanworld.co.uk/vent-axia-svara-high-power-smart-extractor-fan-409802-3540-p.asp
Absolutely yes you must have an FCU with : amp fuse. But the fan will still run all the time.
Simple fix: change the fan for one with a pull cord. Like THIS
I know. But Megawatt said
“ It sounds like you are just getting 120vac instead of 240vac.”
Surely a Canadian (or. USA) genny would be expected to produce 120v. ??
Confirmed by the OP
You can do this right now.
On thd shaver switch, move the brown wire at the top to the COM terminal at the bottom. You’ll end up with three browns in that terminal. They might fit.
That will make the shaver point always on. Then you can get a replacement 1G switch and move the wires across...
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