@Jackkenny2
I imagine that you will be installing new circuit(s) and/or a new consumer unit?
If so you will need to certify the work, probably you are competent enough, and have access to the necessary calibrated test gear?
This work will need to be notified to the local authority. The proper...
Further, if you use a regular multimeter: these are very high impedance and will(can) also display spurious voltages as the result of induction from wiring.
A suitable load/shunt resistor solves this issue.
Professional test equipment includes circuitry to eliminate this.
You could have a look at how they use lighting effects on the dance floor on Strictly. Some very creative Laser stuff.
Might cost a few squillion though. Or hang around Elstree Studios on a Sunday and “borrow” some bits…
Also you need to look at how the ice rink surface is maintained. It’s going to be melted, topped up with water and refilled periodically. Think there’s more IP issues to consider as well as temperature.
I agree, Shelly plus relay plus all your time is a hard way to do this.
Buy one of these. Job done
Timeguard Wi-Fi Controlled Fused Spur (Tuya Edition) - FSTWIFITU
(other similar products are available)
I assume that your DHW is heated with a gas boiler? If so, remember that electricity is more than 3 times the cost of gas, so you'll be paying £££ for the plumber's mistake every time you have a shower.
I totally agree with Littlespark.
Unfortunately
doesn't work or a lot of jobs.
Many electrical projects (new circuits, CUs, and work done in special locations like bathrooms) are NOTIFIABLE to your local authority building control. This is very expensive as a DIY option, for those you will need a registered electrician...
As @SparkyChick says, The WNC UBC TN6 is the communications hub that connects the two meters to the countrywide comms network that then connects to the supplier. Secondly, it also connects to the IHD.
What a crazy way of "saving energy"
I expect that the drivers you have been looking at are constant CURRENT?
You need constant VOLTAGE.
I have seen 24v GU4 LED capsules
so you could use those with this round 24v LED driver
EDIT
AcTEC do a 12volt version that may fit, then you could use your existing 12v GU4 capsules...
CLICK ME
First glance is it is Class 1. But often the original power connector can provide a Class 2. Any other labels on the downlight?
What is hateful is the crap wiring to the black connectors at the ceiling. Not compliant to have the inner sleeves outside an enclosure.
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