I guess you aren't in the UK?
I'll give you a UK answer: You'll not get a spare part for something like that.
You'll be needing to buy a whole new light. Sorry
Hi @vwes59
I guess, from your question, that your core skill is more plumbing than electrical? If that's the case, I really suggest that you get a competent electrician to do this. Its not as easy as upping the MCB and banging in a bigger cable.
In any case, what you plan is going to create...
You can add smart features to an electrical installation, even integrate them in the CU.
Have a look at the Shelly range. This may be of particular interest...
I can only recommend one I have experience with and use.
The Lloytron doorbells use their MIPS system, so you can buy the basic push button + sounder and then add more sounders and bell pushes.
Mine works well. Has a good range. Note that wireless operation can be affected by some building...
Most standard bell transformers are rated at around 1amp. Enough for one bell. Adding a second bell may be too much.
And the length of the wiring has an effect too. But see how you get on. Be prepared to have to buy a bigger transformer.
Quite honestly you’d be better off ditching the plan...
If by “isolate the circuit” you mean that you turned off the MCB then you have not isolated the circuit fully. The MCB only turn off the line.
To fully isolate a circuit you need to disconnect the neutral as well.
The RCBO/RCD may trip if the neutral is still connected and you touch a neutral...
One transformer for two chimes
But
I have found that many bell transformers don’t have enough output for two bells. So, you may find that you need to replace the tranny. Try it and see if it works, but I too would go for a wireless jobby.
Match the contact spec of the existing. Quite honestly, just go for 16amp.
The stats may be directly switching the floor element, but many of the old systems used a contactor (aka mains relay). Is there a clunck from the electric cupboard when the heating kicks in?
Just going back to this. You cannot discriminate RCDs in the same way as you may be able to do with MCBs (and even this ain't easy).
Yes you could have a number of RCDs in a row with decreasing trip currents. but let's look at a simple example.
A 100mA RCD at source, and a 30mA RCD in the...
Another vote for that solution. Bonding with a bit of cement in the mix.
Do make sure the box is set level. The mix goes off extra quick and hard, so there’s no adjustment later!
Either drill through the box and screw to fix - after the bonding has set!
Or pop out a couple of the knock outs...
If you look at the nice pictures of the product, it tells you what you need!
It says that you need a 3amp fused connection unit and connect that to the lighting circuit*
So, buy from Screwfix, or whoever, a fused connection unit, a patress box to mount it on and some 1mm twin and earth cable...
Agreed. I bought three 5 metre LED strips to run from a USB supply. The spec said you could have 4 strips connected together. First strip fine, next strip dimmer third strip dimmer still. Solved it by effectively wiring the strips up as a ring (end strip cabled back to power source.)
Although its a C curve RCBO, I'll bet it is start up surge that is tripping it. As far as I read it, you have three treadmills and a stairclimber running from one 16A RCBO?
Probably when one or two machines are running, then the start-up surge for another will trip it.
Run a nice, new 4mm 32A...
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