Don't forget about diversity. Not all those appliances will be using the full rated power all the time. You could use a smaller generator if you scheduled your power up routine as part of a site set up process. Same if you went through a hard line supply on 16a.
I've gone with reform, purely because Tory and Labour are a set of oxygen thieves. Also reform say they'll up the 40% tax rate to £70k from £50k. I won't have to hide as much cash then 😂
Have you tried them without the PIR in the circuit? Could be a dodgy relay in the PIR. LEDs are not technically always on but pulse really fast so they appear always on. Something upsetting that cycle will allow you to see it with the naked eye.
You can see the effect better using a video...
One of the lads on my Level 2 course has just been offered a role with a firm in Huddersfield as a mate I think. £15 an hour basic Monday to Friday, £24 for weekends and something in-between for overtime. Definitely some more reputable employers out there, I'd keep looking.
I think it's more towards what the future brings with them and their ability to measure true power. Half remember a video from bigclivedotcom that went through it. How a phone charger on a normal meter might be 1p a day to run and on a smart meter it could measure a different way and charge you...
Probably moisture and those are good readings. The scale of your MFT (assuming MFT) probably aren't helping your conscience. I have a couple of different Kewtech models, and sure one caps at >200 and the other >999 on the reading.
I just took my photo for level 2 on Friday by my tutor. Photo was everything screwed back and powered on with myself and a sign identifying my name on it. I mean this in a positive way, stop flapping, your putting way too much thought into it. I'd hazard a guess no one will ever look at the...
That resistor on the PSU should be about 10 ohms if I remember my colours.
Check for a dead short on the other board between ground and the components. I'd highly recommend watching NorthridgeFix on you tube for some good guidance on what you're looking for.
The rear doors usually have some copex between the door and the body. Then normally run up the pillar and along the top. If it's not completely boarded out, you should see it through the skeleton frame.
Unfortunately without schematics and parts lists, etc or a known good unit to compare reaults, you're usually guessing. Short of an obvious skid mark on the board from a blown component or bulging cap with markings on.
There is a guy in YouTube that is good to watch if you get bored and want to...
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