Dymo all the way. Bought one about seven years ago, last year it failed. Rang dymo to see if they could repair, not expecting much. They sent me a brand new upgraded model in a week totally FOC. OK, they probably know they will make it back in tape, but still A1 service in my view. The...
In my view you've got to try them on. Go to screwfix and they will let you try every single type they have. That's what I did, felt a bit of a prat but came away with the most comfortable shoes I've ever had. Sod's law they were the dearest as well!
I have a mix of NWS and Knipex cutters / pliers / strippers etc. and whilst something in me says the Knipex are better, the NWS are far more comfortable in the hand...
PMF180 gave up the ghost today. Was initially thinking about replacing with the blue version 110v, but I see Toolstation do a very similar Makita for about the same money.
Has anyone experience of the Makita, better or worse than the Bosch?
Alternatively, are Fein worth the extra money?
No Part P in NI? I didn't know that. Must be because your electricity is less dangerous than ours!
Just goes to show how stupid the whole part P system is.
Many thanks to all who have commented so far… I said I would post again as I don’t like abandoned threads. Of course any comments / discussion are more than welcome…
In terms of supply
The most elegant solution: split the incomer to a Henley block, main switch then to SWA. Take SWA to...
Hi Scott
I'm not being funny, but if you don't feel confident changing a light switch you shouldn't even think about this. Do you have the right tools to do the job and the right test equipment to make sure it's safe?
Get some quotes. Even the dearest will be less painful than 230v up your arm!
hi again spark68
Why do you suggest a separate CU and not RCBO off main CU (there is room for it)
TBH I don't really understand fully the TT route as it is not something I have much experience of - in particular why not stick a spike in at the GH end and connect it to both CPC from house and...
Hi Tony - RCBO - hadn't thought of that and like the idea. Despite it being a nearly impossible cabling job I am coming around to the idea of putting it on it's own circuit.
Although I do have a nice old wind up alarm clock with bells on the top which would wake up Rip Van Winkle !
Hi Spark68
Many thanks for all your help here – I think I get myself a copy of GN7 tomorrow!
If using the armour of the SWA for the bonding, how do I work out if the CSA of the steel armour is sufficient – is there a table for that somewhere as if so I do not know of it. And if the armour...
Thanks for all the pointers - I think the answer is to bond back to the MET to be on the safe side.
Ref. separate circuit that would be ideal but not at all easy in this case - I think the answer is to scale down the heater (3kW is way more than needed but I was trying to be future proof in...
Hi Spark68
Yep not simple hence my post! Have looked at the big book myself and it was not clear to me. So interested to hear your input. Ref. Part P, I'm with Elecsa, but hey I think the whole scheme thing is a massive waste of time... but perhaps that discussion is for another thread...
Thanks for the post chaps.
spark68 - not sure about a CU in the GH as would have to be IP rated? And in any case no way to run a separate circuit from CU on this one although I like the idea and would prefer that if it were possible.
somersetsparks - don't know if the GH would be considered...
Hi Strima
Thanks for your reply. Zs to GH end is fine so unsure about the spike. Also unsure about bonding the armour at both ends as surely that can induce parallel paths or have I misunderstood what you are saying, i.e. bond the GH to the CPC?
And I am still unsure on that - (a) there are...
Would appreciate any advice taking power to a greenhouse. Greenhouse about 10 metres from house. Intended loads are lighting and sockets for 3 kw heater and propagator. Supply is TN-S. Run 3 core SWA from FCU off downstairs ring main (on RCD board) inside house with armour tied to earth at house...
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