C for me too.
Torque settings were mentioned when I went in for the 18th. NIC representative reckoned if you over-tightened the breaker you could alter it's trip characteristics.
Knightsbridge make a module that fits into a 1G euromodule faceplate - click here. Obviously available neutral & depth to be considered as already mentioned.
Insulated and sheathed...the pedant in me couldn't help it!
You can join it all the same. As has been pointed out, maintenance free is a must. You can use whatever kind of box you want in the new position!
Depends on the existing install.
If new, brown for permanent live for me, only as I was taught that way. As ipf says though, as long as everything is actually sleeved!
In this scenario, 1 install, 1 certificate, 2 boards.
There are plenty of RCD mainswitches in Scotland, where an inline RCD has been fitted to the tails before the board as an easy way of complying with the regs back in the day (although less than ideal now).
Another example would be a TT...
There's different methods of wiring these up depending on what you plan on plugging into each end. For a normal patch lead you would want them to both be the same at each end. Option B (orange in 1 and so on) is usually the preferred way.
New modules are marked A & B, the one in your picture...
It may help to see this, this is the layout for making ends off on patch leads, in other words the order the pins are on the plug which plugs into the RJ45 socket you are wiring.
Fitted 1st generation recently (as per spec). Not the worst, agree on the 35mm boxes. The switches work on a master-slave system for 2-way so your intermediate setup would consist of a master & 2 slaves. Bit of working out to do beforehand to make sure you've got everything the right way round...
*Some people have done it."
Not in your house though. There are many different types of mat, different depths of screed, different methods of install, different installers. There are too many variables!
I personally have cut a channel in a screed with UFH, I was able to speak to the builders...
I second what Adam has said.
Economy rates without storage heaters generally becomes uneconomical.
A standard rate and utilising the timers in the heaters would definitely be the best way to go.
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