Note that the Richard Burns tabulated CCCs are for "Close Protection". A BS3036 fuse is classed as "Course Protection", so you need to divide (or de-rate) by a factor of 1.33, according to the 14th edition info I have.
That means 7/0.036 is OK for a 30A radial if clipped direct, but 7/0.029 is...
Since it's outside, probably best to use the external grade cable, such as this,
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CAEXCAT5E.html.
Standard CAT5 won't last if your conduit / duct fills up with water. And it will.
No point fitting a 100mA RCD - it wouldn't comply, as it needs to be 30mA for shock protection.
I like your approach, looks neat, but as I said, you could come unstuck if you put it up for assessment.
Personally, I would consider it to be no different to running the tails in trunking, but...
I know someone who got pulled on their annual assessment for having concealed meter tails (boxed in like yours) without RCD protection. Just something you may wish to consider. Or not.
Crack on. You're managing to access the JB, so it must be accessible!
BTW, plumbers have a different interpretation as to what is accessible. WRAS guidance states:
The presence of the following surface finishes, appliances and structural fixtures are not considered to be obstacles which make...
The 30mA RCD requirement is to (hopefully) prevent a fatal shock. A time delayed 100mA RCD doesn't do that, so you're wasting your time and money.
Add mechanical protection, re-route the submain, or change it for a cable type which will comply.
Protecting a sub-main with a 63A MCB is...
Leave the centralised filter (the Pressac thing in your picture) at the master socket.
Fit an RJ45 network socket next to your ADLS filter, connect an RJ-11 patch lead from the ADSL filter to the RJ45.
From the RJ45 network socket, run CAT5 (or better) to your remote "dual faceplate"...
They may be cheap, but I waited for over 2 weeks for some of their "in stock in the UK" items to arrive from their overseas suppliers, so they're off my list.
Wago topjob DIN rail terminals are available in sizes to suit 10mm2 cable. Alternatively, one switch and a dual cable outlet from click? Or even just use it to split the cable in accessible position.
I did that about 10 years ago. I'm now in the process of adding extra RJ45 outlets...
And in response to the OP, I usually recommend installing a 13A socket by the doorway of each room. This means there's an easily accessible point for the hoover (or power tools) without having to crawl around...
My mistake. The ones I usually wire have 3 or 4 inches of kingspan sandwiched between the outer and inner skins to make them a bit more than a tool store. The TV will be knackered after one winter in there.
I still don't really understand what your intentions were with the rod installation. Presumably you still have to RCD it anyway?
Couldn't you have run the cables before the internal cladding went on?
I did something similar. I'm not constrained by what someone else thinks should or should not be on the form, there are no annual maintenance fees or delays waiting for reg change updates, and mine does the calculations and verification that I need.
As for the time it took, I didn't turn down...
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc