Absolutely not!
Most of the "Advice" there is completely wrong and against regulations as well as common sense!
But it's so dominated by the "ill-informed" that anytime anything correct is stated it's overwhelmed by bad and incorrect advice.
I don't even look now - I find it too frustrating...
If they are standard RCBOs the MCB aspect could be b,c, or d , but the RCD aspect is almost certainly 30mA instantaneous.
If the MCB aspect does not clear in time, ADS would be met by the RCD aspect - in this case the installation has RCD as FAULT protection not additional protection.
There...
You need to think about each of the fault types individually, as the response is different for each case.
A L->L and L->N fault does not have to meet the Zs disconnection times, it has to not trip under inrush; but does for overload, and fault conditions. Ideally it should coordinate with...
Exactly!
We have a couple of air conditioning units - which are basically heat pumps, they do provide heating and cooling in both hot and cold conditions - certainly capable of maintaining any normal room temperature that we may desire - too cold in the summer, and too hot in the winter if we...
Let me re-phrase that for you:
"I don't understand basic physics "
"Here's a clear explanation of why it won't work "
"I think it will because I don't understand basic physics "
"Here's another clear explanation of why it won't work with easy to understand examples"
"Perhaps, but I don't...
Actually I understood from the last proposal for comments (which closed a few weeks ago) that since the 18th came out in 2018, the next one wouldn't be the 19th, but would be the 25th in order to match the year. (Thus removing the ammendment 1.. 2..3 process we have now)
So simply every year...
Tbh I did have to joint a couple of my pipes, but that was purely down to convenience and me being too stingy to buy another set of continuous lengths.
Ultimately it's only a matter of brazing a couple of joints (actually I used silver solder - so 650 deg C rather than cir 900 deg C) which...
I have fitted my own in both the bedroom and living room. Pretty straightforward, I did not get the ones with the quick connect pipework.
Just a matter of mounting and interwiring then running 1/4" and 3/8" pipework between them and plumbing a drain. (you do need proper pipe insulation)
Given...
I think you mean 65kWhr , but at 80% efficiency
65/.8 = 81.25kWhr
81.25kWhr x 0.13 usd = 10.56 usd
If the charger is 100% efficient
65kWhr x 0.13 usd = 8.45 usd
So somewhere between 8.45 and 10.56 usd depending upon the exact efficiency of your in-car charger and the state of charge...
The current rating of the charge point is largely irrelevant in terms of how much energy is consumed in charging the EV battery, the current rating merely determines how quickly it charges.
The vehicle in-car charger is around 80% efficient, so of you have a car battery of say 100kWhr - you...
But the reason for the flags against people's avatars is to identify where they are from for the purpose of providing the most appropriate responses.
For example if someone is from the US then the responses ought to be made in line with US regs rather than Irish, or Scottish...... English etc...
So what do I get?
English, but living in Scotland.
I identify as English (🤪)
But I would be referencing Scottish regulations rather than English ones.
Since the regulations are actually different between England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland - the Union flag doesn't really narrow...
Since you have a MFT, you should always do an IR test at the very least, although measuring the r1+rn etc should be done as well.
You should have a plug with the MFT, to go directly into a socket with leads to plug into the MFT.
If you don't - just wire a plug accordingly, testing with 240v...
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