You could connect the speakers in series. But you may find that they are then far too quiet as they will be operating at a much lower level. Although if it is only a single channel amp you could have two series pairs in parralel. If you arent familiar with how this stuff works, your best bet...
I cand find the amp specs now but i think I saw them the first time I opened it and it states a minimum impedance of 4 ohms. Your speakers are also 4-6 ohms, so 2 in parralel will be 2-3 ohms. This is probably overloading the amp and causing it to shut down when turned up.
Re the bluetooth...
The device you have is a fused isolator, and is likely required to protect the SWA to the CU. It is almost certainly not the reeponsibilty of either the DNO or supplier, and so you may find that they charge you to replace it if they are even able to do so.
The supplier may supply and fit an...
Perhaps you could reach an agreement that he will pay if a fault is found, and if not you will pick up the bill. (Although not finding the fault doesnt guarentee it isnt there, but it should give you an idea of what is good and what isnt)
The sequence he has discribed (if accurate) would seem...
It is quite odd for both the RCD and MCB to both trip at the same time. A large fault to earth could cause both to trip, but the RCD would normally operate first in around 25mS. For a B32 to trip in under 400mS (and take out the magnetic trip) you would need a current of around 160A, which I...
Is there a PSU in there to drive the electronics and touch screen etc. There could be a fault in there if it tripped on power up. Perhaps, as mentioned earlier, it is very humid in the shop and moisture is getting into the SMPSU.
It does, however, seem like a sensible next step would be to test...
As you have bought this second hand, make sure you definitely have good continuity between the earth wire and any metal parts (should be reading under 1ohm on the multimeter). Ideally you would carry out an earth bond test using a different piece of test equipment.
Have you got suitable...
Is the fitting new? It looks like one of those wires has preiviously been soldered to something. It may be the earth connection and may need to be soldered to the metalwork.
Assuming the maximum load on the pannel board is under 250A? So why are the two supplies to the ATS so much larger? And why are they different?
(I don't have any real experience of distribution curcuits on this level, just interested...)
The nest heat link can switch upto 3A so could be used to switch the pump (assuming it draws less than this). So you may not need to add a zone valve if it isnt otherwise required. Are the pumps 12V as well? You should still be able to switch these through the nest as the switching contacts are...
Thats how I read it at first but I think maybe he is just running cat6 to the emergency switch.
If this is low voltage and just pulling some digital inputs up or down, then that may be an acceptable solution, but definitely not for driving a motor.
I'm not familiar with the regs and standards...
What tests have you carried out so far. Assuming the panel powers a servo/motor on the window? Is this direct or via a relay? Does this operate correctly if powered directly? Is the mechanism moving freely? Have you checked the wiring to the motor?
As with any fault finding, you need to break...
I was thinking he might be able to get to one point somewhere in the house, then the powerline adaptors could link to each room. You could also have a socket on each circuit installed next to each other by the consumer unit and link the two systems there. They would need to be clearly labeled to...
It is likely that this would speed up the connection between the adaptors but it is unadvisable, and could be considered not to meet regulations, if both circuits are put on the same RCD. This is because some appliences and electrical devices have a small leakage current (which is normal and not...
Sorry, missed the contactor bit, feed the coil of that instead of the light, and then use the switched terminals of the contactor to drive the lights. You will need 2 if you need a contacto
Sorry i missed the contactor bit but you would just feed the contactor coil instead of the swich live as...
Break it down into seperate componants. Neutral and earth are easy, just connect to everything that needs it.
You need to take a live to the permenant live terminal, and this needs to be interupted by the test keyswitch.
You also need to take a live to the switched live, and this needs to be...
Electrocution is not the only risk here. One pair (a red and a black) go to the switch. As you cant identify these, every time you connect them to Line and Neutral you sre basically making a short circuit when you turn on the switch. Given the likely resistance of your average lighting circuit...
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