The repair kit is actually sold by WAGO for that specific purpose (in the wall repair). I had wondered myself about shrinking individually first, but their promotional pics here: cable repair set (207-5485/316-000) | WAGO -...
It's 3 connectors per cable of course. I did experiment with some heat-shrink I have (too short to use unfortunately) and 24mm seemed about right to me (measured flat). I don't really want a length I am unlikely to use for anything else though if I get it wrong.
You can get 4:1 shrink ratio too...
WAGO now do a cable repair kit with splicing connectors & heat-shrink tubing, which is a handy new method of being able to do compact cable repairs in the wall. cable repair set (207-5485/316-000) | WAGO -...
OK. What
OK. Thanks for that. I will do as suggested & PAT test the earth resistance at the base. Hopefully OK. Just a little concerned about the number of moving parts between lamp holder & base (screw on brass ring plus telescopic pieces, that might potentially get oiled) & how much...
Struggling with that, as the original earth appears to have been connected to the base (does that count as "manufacturers instructions"? 🙂) & Some here suggesting there is no earth connection on the original lamp holder.
Let's say for arguments sake the cable became frayed at the base of the...
One approach I am considering, is adding an extra earth wire from the plug to the base & encasing this with the original flex in some braided sleeving.
Thanks for your continued feedback.
So I cannot see any other purpose for the V shaped plate to be screwed here, other than to hold the earth. The original piece of earth at the bottom is bare wire, so I am guessing it was laid along & held in place by the narrow part of the V when screwed down...
Actually revisiting that issue has set me thinking about using singles, although the cable still needs to be double insulated to the plug. So I wonder if I remove some of the outer insulation where the pole narrows higher up, effectively giving me singles where needed... I have some sleeved...
I presume you mean the earthing on the lamp holder in the 2nd photo. As the one on the base is pretty clear. So I have attached another photo showing the V shaped plate removed, where I believe the earth wire would go.
The discussion has got a bit side-tracked on fixing/replacing the lamp...
Yes, this seems to be an unusual way of attaching the earth, not one of those where you poke the earth through & secure it with a screw on the outside.
Looking online I see there are some brass lamp holders that appear to have a screw on a collar at the base - is this what you mean by a "lock...
But what is the correct method to connect to that earthing point on the base? Or are you suggesting ignoring that & relying on contact between the components (there are a couple of decorative brass rings at the neck, then steel). I am not sure a new lamp holder could be fitted any more firmly...
Seems to sit on fairly firmly over the rim of the piece below, not actually fixed but I had to tug the wires a bit to get it to move when I took it off & no movement when changing lamps.
I have been asked to rewire an antique metal standard lamp. It has been rewired previously, but not earthed..! One of the screws on the base has a short length of uninsulated wire attached, presumably from the original earthing.
Unfortunately there is insufficient space to run an extra earth...
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