Compatibility between LEDs and dimmers is a constant headache for many.
Old type dimmers - designed for tungsten or halogen bulbs often just don’t work with LEDS - I find the Varilight Pro the most forgiving.
Budget LEDs may say Dimmable but just give problems there’s leading edge v trailing...
Because it is a single point of failure if you have it at the supply input point. One little earth leakage, on any circuit, and you lose power to EVERYTHING.
SWA does not require RCD-protection.
In your new consumer unit, we hope that you are going for RCBOs on each individual circuit?
I hope you mean that you have an electrician who will be carrying out the rewire?
It is ok for the short tails that you have, but a switched fuse is required for the distances you have in mind.
There's no "or even". If you want to extend the main supply any distance through the house then...
I'm assuming there was an original quotation and contract. For a project that size there jolly well should have been?
In all my contracts, additional work was only provided via a "variation of works" addendum. Changes to the original is never carried out until these were costed by the...
And extra for notification? Its a new circuit plus a new consumer unit.
Is this an EXTRA CU _ ie a mini just for the EV - or are you replacing the whole existing house CU?
You are going to have to ask which regulation then.
In my experience some "commissioning" folk - and that especially includes LABC - have their own, unsupported, view on how things should be done.
The switch in the picture above is a double pole switched fuse (FCU) so switching that off isolates both L&N which points the problem at something after that FCU.
Its a reasonably easy job to track this down. You can start randonly opening up any junction boxes in the circuit chain, or make a...
If you get a length of conduit, and seal both ends then the IP rating will instantly be IP68!!
If you buy an IP66 rated Wiska box it will provide resistance to IP66, until you do something silly - like connect a cable to it badly.
Basically, PVC cables are waterproof. The place you need no water -in conduits- is where there are cable junctions.
Also, if you run your conduit outside, then any water that gets into the conduit will run to the lowest point, and that may be the hole through and into your cabin.
In actual fact ALL electrical work must comply with the LAW relating to electrical safety. The Statutory Instrument embedded in Building Regulations P1 is simply this:
To support the application of this, the government produces what is known as an "Approved Document". It states the way(s)...
First problem: That box is not suitable for outside use. It isnt sealed in any respect. The fixing holes at the back will let in water and (as I can see) the top knock out has pushed in allowing more wet + critters to nestle in there.
There are proper junction boxed for burying. eg PRATLEY...
Products that have an IP rating are certified as a single assembled unit. Conduit and accessories will be put together by whoever (you in this case). So the resulting resistance to any external influence will be down to the quality of your expertise!
I'm guessing that this work will...
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