Neutral is a "live" conductor so should generally be switched
Also even with TN where the neutral is reliably at earth potential it can be safer to switch
Everytime i go out to my mechanic he tells some something different
Use a breaker bar 😁
I've got a new impact wrench here 😁
Makes sense alright impacting rather than smooth torque for removal
Ive done a few bits of diy networking in my own place using cat5 end-to-end
But as said above the solids not meant to be used as a flexible end connection in pro work
Not strictly electrical but anyone used them
Supposedly open the tightest truck wheel nuts with ease
No particular use for them but i'll be testing soon😁
When you say different algorithm in a kitchen do you mean they switch from heat+smoke to heat only or something in between
It seems a little unsatisfactory if the householder can change settings on fire alarms
Presumably maintenance or a local outage you're taking out lights and alarms at same time and vice-versa
Also it's better electrical design to have lights and alarms separate
Notwithstanding the fact that alarms and lights may be "bunched" at an mcb. This has some advantage that the homeowner...
Seems to be the type that's supplied with a flat base in picture to secure the alarm ?
Then there's an additional deep base to terminate the fixed wiring into which hasn't been fitted hwre
I was posting that but wasn't sure
Some have a separate back box and it's often omitted but those wires from detector look like they could be solid
Maybe they're fine-stranded tinned enabling them to be shoved into the wago,that's the way they're usually supplied anyhow
Ya I looked at those Socket and See onetime . I think the threshold was 50V AC
My martindale single-point test is > 100V AC on the 2-wire voltage tester
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