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Deleted member 112675

Hello Everyone

Despite buying electricians gloves, other ppe, 25mm tails and the switch itself I'd still rather it be done by someone a/ qualified and b/ has done it many times before. Only worse case would I consider c/ ....

Anyway, I guess there are some variables so maybe hard to get an approximate price but I'd have thought on my board surely it would be less than an hour's work to pull the main fuse and fit an isolator after the meter? Assuming there was no issue with the DNO (sse) which I think there wouldn't be for a NICEIC etc electrician, and assuming the existing tail lengths are plenty long enough out of the meter, how much would I be looking at? ÂŁ200 ?

Also, since the work might involve taking the tails out of the existing CU and routing them to the new isolator, could the electrician we hired be obliged to shut down everything if he thought the CU was unsafe? That is actually my biggest fear with hiring anyone rather than doing myself.
 
Well some more news on this today. My supplier (not my DNO) has as part of an Ombudsman case (mostly about other things but I added their lack of response to my request in there) agreed to fit an isolator for ÂŁ79 !

That is perfectly reasonable in my view and when they finally get around to doing it I'll be very happy. Still not sure how this is going to work in practice though and have half a feeling they quoted this to the Ombudsman just to keep her happy. We'll see...

It does beg the question though as to why local electricians would need to see the installation and presumably charge to rectify any issues they saw before fitting the switch. Pics of CU and surrounds not good enough.

The supplier hasn't made this conditional - I simply need to pay the cash and they'll fit it. As I understand it they don't care if my installation was put in by a handyman in the 1920s, has bare wire exposed everywhere incl bathroom and outside, fuse box is so hot its used as a radiator and it sparks & clicks constantly. They'll fit it and don't need any more info (with which to charge me more).
 
Well some more news on this today. My supplier (not my DNO) has as part of an Ombudsman case (mostly about other things but I added their lack of response to my request in there) agreed to fit an isolator for ÂŁ79 !

That is perfectly reasonable in my view and when they finally get around to doing it I'll be very happy. Still not sure how this is going to work in practice though and have half a feeling they quoted this to the Ombudsman just to keep her happy. We'll see...

It does beg the question though as to why local electricians would need to see the installation and presumably charge to rectify any issues they saw before fitting the switch. Pics of CU and surrounds not good enough.

The supplier hasn't made this conditional - I simply need to pay the cash and they'll fit it. As I understand it they don't care if my installation was put in by a handyman in the 1920s, has bare wire exposed everywhere incl bathroom and outside, fuse box is so hot its used as a radiator and it sparks & clicks constantly. They'll fit it and don't need any more info (with which to charge me more).
I’ve also carried work out at the main cut out fuses for most energy companies because I worked on a storage heater contract which involved all the energy companies at first I was told I wasn’t allowed to cut the ties and breaking the law from many companies around Britain, but when I explained the situation that without me isolating and renewing the undersized (in some occasions) detoriorating, melting tails that the property I was working at is at high risk they soon backed down, i then got into conversation with many engineers from the energy supply companies who to be quite frank havnt got a f****ing clue
 
Dno's charges for fitting an isolator vary in price, I know from experience that BG charge around ÂŁ60 but I had a quote recently from OVO for ÂŁ160!
There is also a company online who for ÂŁ68+vat who will come out and pull the fuse and fit an isolator and reseal
 
My on site guide is 19th so that will do ( I don't have the full copy so rely on my mate ).

I'm still only working to the 18th!

I think you are over complicating the issue by bringing in the CU replacement as well.
If the DNO came to install an isolator they wouldn't give two hoots to your existing CU/installation (unless there was something really obviously dangerous), but may recommend an EICR.

Meter tails look like 16sq to me!
 
I'm still only working to the 18th!

I think you are over complicating the issue by bringing in the CU replacement as well.
If the DNO came to install an isolator they wouldn't give two hoots to your existing CU/installation (unless there was something really obviously dangerous), but may recommend an EICR.

Meter tails look like 16sq to me!

Yes I would expect that. So why then would most electricians apparently not want to do the job unless they were also in with a good chance of doing the CU too? Or more bonding or whatever else was deemed unsafe ? I suppose they don't want to do it for the same reason the suppliers and DNOs don't want to. Not much cash in it for the risk.

I suppose its completely reasonable that a fully qualified and professional electrician would not want to travel somewhere just for eighty quid or so. I just wish it was more transparent and not masked under safety issues.

Its also interesting that you're working to the 18th. The one electrician I did contact said he would only fit a metal box to house the isolator. Did that rule come in with the 19th ?

P.S. If I do eventually get the isolator fitted by the supplier and if those tails are 16 should I ask before hand about upgrading to 25 or when the guy gets to site? Should they upgrade them as part of the isolator work (i.e. at no more cost)?

P.P.S. I'd love to know the name of the company that does the isolator for ÂŁ68+vat ?
 
Yes I would expect that. So why then would most electricians apparently not want to do the job unless they were also in with a good chance of doing the CU too? Or more bonding or whatever else was deemed unsafe ? I suppose they don't want to do it for the same reason the suppliers and DNOs don't want to. Not much cash in it for the risk.

I suppose its completely reasonable that a fully qualified and professional electrician would not want to travel somewhere just for eighty quid or so. I just wish it was more transparent and not masked under safety issues.

Its also interesting that you're working to the 18th. The one electrician I did contact said he would only fit a metal box to house the isolator. Did that rule come in with the 19th ?

P.S. If I do eventually get the isolator fitted by the supplier and if those tails are 16 should I ask before hand about upgrading to 25 or when the guy gets to site? Should they upgrade them as part of the isolator work (i.e. at no more cost)?

P.P.S. I'd love to know the name of the company that does the isolator for ÂŁ68+vat ?

This doesn't make much sense, you say most electricians won't do the work without doing a load of other work, but then go on to say that you've only contacted one electrician?

The 18th edition is the current one, the 19th edition doesn't exist yet and probably won't be coming out for another 6/7 years (but hopefully longer)

The first question to answer about the tails is what size do they need to be?
 
Then the SSE are wrong as we cannot legally pull main fuses. Only the DNO’s and power supplier companies can do that.
I was about to quote reg 537.1.3 which has a note at the end of it which says you can withdraw the cut out fuse if authorised to do so by the DNO, I would class the email that the OP got as authorisation for the electrician to do just this.

However, for those of you who have the BGB and the BYB you will see that this reg is in there, but checking the BBB it seems that section 537.1 has been reworded and I cannot find it now.
 
@sparkless2 It's really not a good idea to change the consumer unit yourself. You could easily just see where all the cables went before and just change them over to new consumer unit which has some form of RCD in it. That is just like me copying word for word what a French person says but i have know idea what it means. You may even think you do have a little electrical knowledge, that will be even worse with a consumer unit change as it may give you the (incorrect) confidence to do it.

One of the most important (if not the most important) aspect is having the correct testing equipment (i.e a multi function tester so that you can test the RCD's are tripping correctly amongst many other tests. The testing can sometimes take almost as long as installing the unit itself.

I do admire the fact that you've come clean and admitted what your plans are, you also sound like a fairly sensible chap..... so don't do it!
 
As an NICEIC Approved Contractor I wouldn't hesitate (and have done) in pulling the main cutout fuses (incl 3phase) where the need arises, to fit an isolator or whatever the need may be. An isolator change is a relatively easy job (I'd allow typically) 30mins (1ph) 45-60mins (3ph) when on site so not going to be mega ÂŁÂŁÂŁ's.
Funnily enough I have one to fit soon on an agricultural property (3ph) but my time in getting there and back will be far greater than the actual cost of fitting the device (materials excluded).

We then notify the DNO (in our case SSE) what we've done and that it needs re-sealing. In reality I doubt that it hardly ever gets done and cant say I've returned to site to check.
Sometimes we might fit our own seals if think tampering might be an issue.

As HHD post above, get a professional sparks to look at changing the CU. Its not a job for a DIYer!
 
I had this work done recently...
I needed to upgrade the tails between the meter and the CU from 16mm to 25mm and chose to add an isolation switch at the same time so that I could isolate my house CU and wiring without having to pull the fuse or break any seals in future...

The electricity supplier (not the DNO) needed to do this work, because they had to disconnect/reconnect the tails at the meter, which had the supplier's seal (different to the DNO's seal which is on the main fuse).

My CU had been newly replaced by a forum member, but before the isolator was fitted, due to the 3 week delay. The whole installation was checked thoroughly, not just a rewire of what you see in the cupboard.

No matter what qualifications a sparky has, they are not allowed to do this as they can't re-seal the meter. Tampering with the seals is a criminal offence because the implications are that you are unsealing the meter to steal electricity. Seals are apparently inspected about every 3 years or so - even though you regularly send in your own meter readings, eventually the supplier will insist on the meter being read by one of their guys and this is one of the things he'll be looking for.

Total cost for the job, tails plus isolation switch, was ÂŁ130. Job took about an hour by a sub-contractor to the elec supplier (ironically, who was studying to be a proper electrician in his spare time).

The downside is that in my case it took at least 3 weeks to get an appointment for the work to be done. Also the electricity supplier will only speak to their customer, so if you own the property but your tenant is the customer, he will need to cooperate for the job to happen.
 
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I’ve replaced meter tails before now, my DNO SSE (as already said) allows Scheme members to pull main fuses.

As far as I’m aware, cutting a seal is not a criminal offence. Illegal abstraction of electricity is; to be found guilty of this offence, would require more of an actus resus, than just cutting a seal.

I’ve revisited various properties, where I’ve followed the correct procedure for cutting a seal etc. Some still had the temporary seals I had installed, some had shiny new Suppliers and or DNO seals. I don’t think there’s an active campaign to inspect seals, especially if the energy supplier is getting its money’s worth in payment for their products.
 
I had this work done recently...
I needed to upgrade the tails between the meter and the CU from 16mm to 25mm and chose to add an isolation switch at the same time so that I could isolate my house CU and wiring without having to pull the fuse or break any seals in future...

The electricity supplier (not the DNO) needed to do this work, because they had to disconnect/reconnect the tails at the meter, which had the supplier's seal (different to the DNO's seal which is on the main fuse).

My CU had been newly replaced by a forum member, but before the isolator was fitted, due to the 3 week delay. The whole installation was checked thoroughly, not just a rewire of what you see in the cupboard.

No matter what qualifications a sparky has, they are not allowed to do this as they can't re-seal the meter. Tampering with the seals is a criminal offence because the implications are that you are unsealing the meter to steal electricity. Seals are apparently inspected about every 3 years or so - even though you regularly send in your own meter readings, eventually the supplier will insist on the meter being read by one of their guys and this is one of the things he'll be looking for.

Total cost for the job, tails plus isolation switch, was ÂŁ130. Job took about an hour by a sub-contractor to the elec supplier (ironically, who was studying to be a proper electrician in his spare time).

The downside is that in my case it took at least 3 weeks to get an appointment for the work to be done. Also the electricity supplier will only speak to their customer, so if you own the property but your tenant is the customer, he will need to cooperate for the job to happen.

Your information is incorrect, electricians are permitted by certain DNO's to break the seals.
The DNO can do this work, it doesn't have to be the electricity supplier, there are also independant companies who are authorised to do this. As you say there are subcontractors doing the work.
Cutting seals doesn't equate to prosecution for theft of electricity, they will have to prove the theft for this to happen. If there was a sudden drop in electricity usage that coincided with the seals being cut then they might take an interest.
 

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