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Evening all,

With so many smart/connected home products on the market now, what are the great and the goods thoughts on dropping 3 core down to switches when using the 3 plate system for lights to provide a neutral at the switch?

I know there is the loop at the switch method which I have used but I still like the flexibility for add ons etc that having line and neutral at the ceiling point provides.

Thanks and atb

Chris
 
The only time I used to do that (before we wired through the switches) was down to the front/back door switches as it made it dead easy to add outside lights at a later date. I hate 'smart' products so don't think to allow for them.
 
Thanks for your thoughts so far.

I am no great fan of smart products myself (Mrs suggested one for bathroom so we could turn the light on when our 3 year old goes to the loo, instead, I educated the little one in the operation of a light switch) But I know the requests will come. We have a lot of offices/test cells to wire at work over the coming months and I know smart technology will be mentioned.
 
All this smart tech is going to cause problems with testing on eicrs. as you are going to have to go round dis-connecting it all from within the backboxes, its all good and well asking the customer about what is in the property but all it takes is something to be over looked i am not sure some of this wifi switch lot will take to kindly to IR testing.. moment smart tech is mentioned it might be a safer bet to drop down to 250v.
Limitations aplenty i think....
 
Remember the days when it was taboo to wire mains at switches,it’s the norm theses days,& better most of the time.
When we first did it Nicec were not happy,back in the 80’s.
 
I believe it is standard practice in the USA now.
Electrical codes require a neutral to be available at all switchs.
Again probably because of the increased use of electronics
Such as touch switchs, remote controls, movement sensors,
Timers, etc etc etc.
 
Yes, that is what I am thinking, run the cables for loop at the light point as usual but then use 3 core + e for the switch drop. It's the only way I can think of providing a neutral at the switch and the permanent live supply at the light point.

Thanks for all your thoughts/opinions so far.
 
My initial thought was to heat shrink and leave disconnected at the light point and do the same at the switch, it could then be connected in if/when needed.

Making off to earth would be a much tidier job though. Always happy to change my method of someone finds a better way.

Thanks again all, interesting to know the opinions.
 

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