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berko

Through my many Google searchs relating to electrics over the years, I keep finding myself here... So this time, I'm going to just make a thread and ask you guys directly instead :p

1. I have made a few changes to the wiring in my house one such as the added sockets in the attic are I belive, not notifiable, however the added sockets in the kitchen the added shower circit and the sockets/light in the shed are, I understand that. I of course did not notify before hand so could I just get a spark in to certify now and everything be okay? I belive that everything I have done is up to regs so it would just need a profesinal eye and a test.

2. I have been wondering why, if I am standing on a completely non conductive ceramic floor, not touching anything else, i will get electrocuted when touching a live wire... where is the electric being conducted to?

3. To become a domestic spark, what tests do I have to sit? I think this would be useful for me in the future.

Many thanks,

Berko
 
I would only issue a report for the work not a cert, so it would not be registered with building control, even then I am dubious cause I have seen DIY work before and it can be more hassle than it's worth. I have come across incomplete ring circuits because the cables have been stripped back to short they cannot be terminated in to the socket properly and pop out when fixed back.

Don't touch live cables because the current will flow through any path in can to earth, mcb's protect cables from overload and short circuit they are not to stop people getting electrocuted. The cpd will see you a a load and not a fault dependant on resistance.

As regards to the 100 Amp mcb are you sure it is a mcb, generally domestic boards mcb's 45 to 50 amp are the highest. It could be a RCD rated at 100 Amp but that wont detect overload.


To become a spark a quick course is not the answer, it takes experience as well as qualifications to become a good one, domestic or commercial.
 
yes in the road there will be a 3 phase cable.

(and in Chesire they have little hampsters in wheels running to make there electrickery)
nah, we have great big hamsters. little hamster is on top gear.
 
I would only issue a report for the work not a cert, so it would not be registered with building control, even then I am dubious cause I have seen DIY work before and it can be more hassle than it's worth. I have come across incomplete ring circuits because the cables have been stripped back to short they cannot be terminated in to the socket properly and pop out when fixed back.

Don't touch live cables because the current will flow through any path in can to earth, mcb's protect cables from overload and short circuit they are not to stop people getting electrocuted. The cpd will see you a a load and not a fault dependant on resistance.

As regards to the 100 Amp mcb are you sure it is a mcb, generally domestic boards mcb's 45 to 50 amp are the highest. It could be a RCD rated at 100 Amp but that wont detect overload.


To become a spark a quick course is not the answer, it takes experience as well as qualifications to become a good one, domestic or commercial.

Thanks for the advice, all I can say is that a fully qualified spark who has been in the job many years and has worked on countless jobs has already seen every socket, JB, and the CU, and he said it was "perfect". But did not test as I was not finished, but was happy to come back. (was a friend of my dads). This was a few months ago now, and I have never gotten him nor anybody else back hence the question I posed, and of course no matter who it was, they'd need paying, which is not so easy at the moment.

I know not to touch live wires I have done A-Level physics which covered the more advanced side of things, such as 3 pahse, formulas and circuit diagrams ect. It was just a hypothetical question than I have not been able to answer by myself.

I meant to say a 100amp DP not MCB, silly mistake. It's just an iso switch after all.

And you're right, it takes alot of time and effort to become fully qualified, a quick overnight course is not worth the paper it's written on. I was going to do a JTL course, did the test and everything, but there were no available electrisions in my local area to do the apprenticeship with :(
 
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Probably just repeating what has already been said, but under part p, only the installer themselves can issue the certs (or the installing company). Anyone who is going to sign of someone elses work is going to want paying a fair bit for the risk of doing it - probably not cost much more for them to do the work in the first place.
 
Probably just repeating what has already been said, but under part p, only the installer themselves can issue the certs (or the installing company). Anyone who is going to sign of someone elses work is going to want paying a fair bit for the risk of doing it - probably not cost much more for them to do the work in the first place.
Keeps coming up in here ...this one dont it.....like oh well i just did this work and i need someone to issue a EIC for it.......the minuite this takes a hold it will be the end for a lot of good, competent sparks......bloody no chance....lol.......
 
Probably just repeating what has already been said, but under part p, only the installer themselves can issue the certs (or the installing company). Anyone who is going to sign of someone elses work is going to want paying a fair bit for the risk of doing it - probably not cost much more for them to do the work in the first place.

So why do so many sparks say they can do it? And I know the building inspector is happy for this to happen too, seen it with my own eyes. I've never known one to say they're not allowed to issue a cert if they are not the ones doing the work. What your saying makes more sense though.
 
Part P is a self cerfication scheme, so really you cant issue a cert if you havnt done it. One way maybe would to get a full installation cert that has signatures for the person in charge if the design, the install and the inspection and test. This is usually done on large jobs where a designer has designed the installation and the contractors are working to their drawings ans specifications. Thus the contractor has no come back for design isssues if he follows the designers drawings. But this is not common for domestic jobs.
 
Yes any of us could lie and say we carried out the work in you home.
But the inland revenue can check with building control in regards works we have done. The tax man would have an idea on the cost of a rewire and we would have to prove that you had not paid us cash in hand.

In addition we all have spent years learning our trade. In my case I have spent 4 years at college and as an apprentice.
In addition I have spent 24 years of experience and expertise.

I have about ÂŁ2000 worth of test equipment, about ÂŁ1000 worth of plant.

I carry either ÂŁ2m worth of PL insurance and ÂŁ250,000 worth of PI insurance.

I have on going assessments and registration with a reaccrediting body as well as licences for access equipment (plasma and ipaf)

You can hire me, my plant, experience to carryout the work. Either all of it or none of it.

Does this make sense?
 
Part P is a self cerfication scheme, so really you cant issue a cert if you havnt done it. One way maybe would to get a full installation cert that has signatures for the person in charge if the design, the install and the inspection and test. This is usually done on large jobs where a designer has designed the installation and the contractors are working to their drawings ans specifications. Thus the contractor has no come back for design isssues if he follows the designers drawings. But this is not common for domestic jobs.

Good reply
 
Part P is a self cerfication scheme, so really you cant issue a cert if you havnt done it. One way maybe would to get a full installation cert that has signatures for the person in charge if the design, the install and the inspection and test. This is usually done on large jobs where a designer has designed the installation and the contractors are working to their drawings ans specifications. Thus the contractor has no come back for design isssues if he follows the designers drawings. But this is not common for domestic jobs.

Thanks, that clears things up.

Yes any of us could lie and say we carried out the work in you home.
But the inland revenue can check with building control in regards works we have done. The tax man would have an idea on the cost of a rewire and we would have to prove that you had not paid us cash in hand.

In addition we all have spent years learning our trade. In my case I have spent 4 years at college and as an apprentice.
In addition I have spent 24 years of experience and expertise.

I have about ÂŁ2000 worth of test equipment, about ÂŁ1000 worth of plant.

I carry either ÂŁ2m worth of PL insurance and ÂŁ250,000 worth of PI insurance.

I have on going assessments and registration with a reaccrediting body as well as licences for access equipment (plasma and ipaf)

You can hire me, my plant, experience to carryout the work. Either all of it or none of it.

Does this make sense?

Yes, but what doesn't make sense is that you felt the need to list all your attributes, I was not suggesting you would ever issue a cert for work you had not done, or that you do things illegitimately. I however have always been led to belive that you can do what ever work you want, then get someone to cert it for you. Apparently I was wrong.
 
Hi Berko, I think you may be confused with building control. What you can do is contact them BEFORE you start any work on your home. Get them to agree your work. Pay their fee. First fix, get building control back. Then 2nd fix and then get them back again to get it signed off. If building control are involved with the whole process and are a. Paid and b. Happy with your work THEN you can do the work yourself on you OWN home. If it makes it feel a little less unjust to you then think of this; if we had not part p registered the we too, even though qualified, would have to go the same route on our own home.
Hope this helps
David
 
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