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deamonata

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Hi there,

We're currently having a new kitchen fitted and in the process we've had some new electrical work done. The electricains are comeing back on friday to install a new fuse as they didn't have a 16A one with them for the outside sockets (the cable is apparently not suitable for the size it was originally)

In the intervening time though I've had some time to look around the kitchen and I have a few concerns:
  • None of the surface mount back boxes above the cabinets are secured to the walls (providing power for oven, microwave, undercounter lights ect)
  • The socket for the fridge/freezer is just lying loose on the floor, again not secured and given that it's not that far from the sink, if we had a leak under the sink it would presumably be dangerous.
  • The cables for the backbox for the dishwasher and washing machine haven't been mechanically secured.
  • The cable for the hob isn't above the hob/isolation switch or in any other valid safe zone that I can see. the cabling is around 250mm from the corner of the wall and around 300mm from the side of the isolation switch/hob

Given that they are coming back out I plan to raise these issues but if I could get some confirmation that these thing are wrong, and ideally the parts of the regulations that state that these things aren't acceptable.


George
 
-back boxes will all need secured
-trailing socket on floor is not ideal but very common and if cable is clamped corrected in trailing socket, doesn't pose any danger. Electrical work is not designed around possible plumbing leaks in your house
-cables should be secured throughout their length
-300mm from hob is fine for switch, if cable is on surface safe zones don't apply. If it is recessed into wall safe zones apply vertically and horizontally from switch
 
Are any of these questions answered on your previous thread?

 
-back boxes will all need secured
-trailing socket on floor is not ideal but very common and if cable is clamped corrected in trailing socket, doesn't pose any danger. Electrical work is not designed around possible plumbing leaks in your house
-cables should be secured throughout their length
-300mm from hob is fine for switch, if cable is on surface safe zones don't apply. If it is recessed into wall safe zones apply vertically and horizontally from switch

I'm not sure what you mean by clamped I've attached a photo below of the fridge socket if you can advise that would be great.

To clarify the connection between the hob and switch isn't the issue that's surface mounted (although there is a junction box that looks to be loose now that I check. The issue is that the feed isn't in a valid location that I can see. I've included some images showing the rough positioning. The cupboard containing the isolation switch is the one below the hob, not the one below the cable.
 

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Last edited:
Are any of these questions answered on your previous thread?


Not really. I was asking about the isolation switch there but as it was earlier on it was deemed fine providing the isolation switch was positioned below the cable.

I didnt think about continuing that thread but I thought the questions were different enough to warrent a different thread. If this was the wrong call, then I apologise and I'm happy to delete this one and post is as a continuation of the previous thread
 
you need my mate, forum name is Glennsparks, but he's rarely on here. He is in Leeds. If you pm me your contact derails, I'll pass them on
 
Tell me that cooker switch lash up in the 3rd photo isn't the finished install

YeeHaa
 

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