Am I quilified ?

[Danny k]

Hi, I've been asked by a friend to install a new 60898 17 edition CCU, in replacement of an old 3036 CCU. The whole setup is TN-S and from the 100A supplers fuse the tails run to an old electromechanical watt-hour meter, then the live tail from the metre runs of to the 3036 CCU and the same for the netrual.

From the CCU you have 3 semi enclosed fuses that supplys lights and sockets of the downstairs, i'm not 100 % as to what they are, until i have a good look, but i know you have T+E coming out from the CCU going to a seperate single CCU located no more then a meter away that is a breaker supplying the cocker and another T+E cable going to another seperate twin CCU supplying more lights and sockets for the property.Really, he just wants it all cleaned up and on one main CCU.

So i have no problem isolating the supplying that runs around the house, i am only quilifed up to Level 2 C+G and am quite capable of following the safe isolation procdure, what gets abit tricky is i have no test equipment to test any of the cable calculations for fuse sizes nor to do any inspection and testing and to be 100 % in my work even though i want legally be able to give the work a certificate because i am not part P quilified.

What I know is as on the current CCU|:

Sockets are on a 30 A fuse.
Lights are on a 5 A fuse.
Cooker is on a 40 A fuse.

Surley if i was to isolate the supply install the 17th edition CCU,(wiring is the old RED and BLACK), put sockets on one side of an RCD and lights and cooker on another side of another RCD being 32A sockets, 6A normal lights and 40A cooker, i should be fine as there apparently hasn't been any problems, with his current setup.

Legally would i be OK doing this and want come of any trouble if everything contiunes to run correctly....

* I know not to touch the naked copper cable of the tail leads that go from the metre to the actual CCU.

* I don't think i have any need to mess with any earth bondings etc, as that runs visably to the cable sheath, i would only earth from the CCU to the main protective earthing terminal, which is already in place on the old 3036 CCU and would just be a replacement into the new CCU.

 

[Octopus]

Hum ..... do YOU think you should do this?

 

[tonys]

If you have no test equipment how do you intend to fill out a test sheet ?

 

[Johnny-G]

How are you going to test the installation before you stick it on RCD's?
Or after when it keeps tripping?
Does your insurance cover you to do this work?
Is this a genuine question?
Etc....

 

[Penance]

Maybe quilified but not qualified?

 

[Guest123]

I think what the members are trying to say is that this job requires notification to building control.

There are 2 ways of doing this either (A) if you are a member of a part p scheme (niceic, elecsa, napit) etc, you carry out the work complete an electrical installation certificate and notify the job via your scheme providor.

(B) if you are not a member of a scheme then you need to notify building control before you start the work so they can come and inspect the job before & after, you will still need to complete an EIC. This way will cost anything between £100 - £300 pounds depending on your area.

 

[DoBBY]

Hi, I've been asked by a friend to install a new 60898 17 edition CCU, in replacement of an old 3036 CCU. The whole setup is TN-S and from the 100A supplers fuse the tails run to an old electromechanical watt-hour meter, then the live tail from the metre runs of to the 3036 CCU and the same for the netrual.

From the CCU you have 3 semi enclosed fuses that supplys lights and sockets of the downstairs, i'm not 100 % as to what they are, until i have a good look, but i know you have T+E coming out from the CCU going to a seperate single CCU located no more then a meter away that is a breaker supplying the cocker and another T+E cable going to another seperate twin CCU supplying more lights and sockets for the property.Really, he just wants it all cleaned up and on one main CCU.

So i have no problem isolating the supplying that runs around the house, i am only quilifed up to Level 2 C+G and am quite capable of following the safe isolation procdure, what gets abit tricky is i have no test equipment to test any of the cable calculations for fuse sizes nor to do any inspection and testing and to be 100 % in my work even though i want legally be able to give the work a certificate because i am not part P quilified.

What I know is as on the current CCU|:

Sockets are on a 30 A fuse.
Lights are on a 5 A fuse.
Cooker is on a 40 A fuse.

Surley if i was to isolate the supply install the 17th edition CCU,(wiring is the old RED and BLACK), put sockets on one side of an RCD and lights and cooker on another side of another RCD being 32A sockets, 6A normal lights and 40A cooker, i should be fine as there apparently hasn't been any problems, with his current setup.

Legally would i be OK doing this and want come of any trouble if everything contiunes to run correctly....

* I know not to touch the naked copper cable of the tail leads that go from the metre to the actual CCU.

* I don't think i have any need to mess with any earth bondings etc, as that runs visably to the cable sheath, i would only earth from the CCU to the main protective earthing terminal, which is already in place on the old 3036 CCU and would just be a replacement into the new CCU.

This has to be a wind up!

 

[SimpleSimon]

With all due respect mate I think this is too big a job for you to start. Take small steps first. You've highlighted a few things already.
When you say one side of the RCD, do you know what it means to have circuits on protected side and on the non-protected side?and under the 17th which ones may have to be protected and why? Just because it doesn't currently have any problems, don't rule out it being a-ok. That's what our testing is for.
This is friendly advice mate, don't take it the wrong way be pleased you did the big thing and asked for advice and you can now go back and build yourself up from something a bit smaller.

 

[telectrix]

best to find a local scheme meber to supervise and test the job. he would be better having the £300 you would have to pay LABC, and, how else would you test. testing, up to a point needs doing before hand to see if you.ve got any nasty surprises.

 

[madmac]

The Daily Star have allowed an advert to appear all last week which is proclaiming to train anyone up to be a fully qualified 17th edition electrician in only 70 days!!!
The SJIB was approached and asked about this and they say they DON'T recognise it. PHEW! However they do say that the English JIB DO recognise it and not only that will issue a grade card on completion!!! I think this is the slippery slope for the industry as a whole, and don't expect mobs to worry as it can only be good for their profit margins by using monkeys and paying them peanuts!

 

[Engineer54]

If you are qualified/competent to undertake this work, you wouldn't be asking the things you've asked!!! The very fact you have no test equipment should be telling you, that your unable to undertake this work, whether for a friend or for anyone else!!

An electrician without the required test equipment, is NOT a competent electrician, if he thinks he can undertake any type of installation without it....

Your time will come soon enough, but right now, is NOT the right time for you to be practicing your so far learnt skills, you have a ways to go yet i'm afraid!!!

 

[tonys]

Engineer54

One of your best speeches yet lol

 

[Danny k]

Pretty sound advice, from everyone, no test equipment, so i will not undertake this job. I'm going back for my level 3 in september and will contiune my journey from there, in the mean time, i'm going to save up for some test equipment. And just patiently wait, i do however have another question regarding, notifing building control, anyone care to point me in the direct so i can have a read up about what bits of work need to be notified.

Like for example, do i need to notifie building control if i install small peaces of electrical work, like an extra couple of sockets or lights on a new circet breaker...

I'm looking forward to becoming a fullyqulifed spark really, it's very interesting have a lot to learn.

 

[SimpleSimon]

Have a look on the websites of NICEIC Napit and Elecsa. Think one of them may have a table. In the mean time don't hesitate to ask questions.

 

[SMB]

Hi Danny, I think you are very brave to come here and ask your questions, it shows you want to learn. And you have made the right decision to not take on work you can not cope with.

I think the problem is there are alot of people on this site who are very well informed and they get bored of the same questions day in / day out.

There is a lot of helpful info here about Part P which has already been posted, have a look at some of it.

Get yourself a copy of these.......

"Electricians guide to the building regulations"

And

"The building regulations...Electrical safety - dwellings. Approved document P"




Stick around, and I wish you all the best with your studys.