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V

vauxfan

i am moving this wire to the otherside of the room, and i wondered how i go about taking the end off this wire, is it just a cut and then re attach the end, problem is i can't seem to see how the wire attaches to the end, it looks fixed!, i have virgin hd if that matters.
 

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Hello and welcome to the forum vauxfan

the wire you want to move is called an F conector, you can undo it with an adjustable spanner, it is connected to a spliiter, below where the cabel is it will have two outputs (normally although you can split more).

Do not cut the wire, you need a coupler http://www.*************/prods/9573...nnectors/Labgear-F-Plug-to-F-Plugs-Pack-of-10 to attach the cable to once you have disconnected it from the splitter.

Then use this http://www.*************/prods/3737...reened-Coaxial-Lead-F-Plug-to-F-Plug-White-2m (this is the 2 metre version you can get longer, i suspect this may be too short for you).

Then attach the splitter (the metal box that the cable is currently connected to), to the end of the new cable.

Job done, you have now moved the connection to the other side of the room, if you want you can use the old white box, the splitter was in to house the connection you have made to make the job neater,

Good luck and best wishes


Antimatter
 
Looks like the links dont work, just google, screwfix, or any other suplier, and look in the electrical / tv section for the F connections and Fly leads
 
Hi Vauxfan,
The metal box under the f connector is known as an 'isolater' in vm terms, and is there to stop any surge from the vm network, how are you intending to move the box to the other side of the room?
if your moving the black cable externally then just re attach the 'isolator' at the new point of enrty, if not just extend the white cable on the underside (not in picture), if you do need to purchase new 'f type' connectors make sure they are for rg6 rather than rg59 else you'll get problems attaching them and morelikely blocking and freezing pictures..

Cheers
 
daveb74 i think you are thinking of attenuation, instead of isolator, as attenuation, resists or steps down, the signal, sometimes when it is too strong, run Diagnositcs, on your set top to check signal to noise ratios also it will tell you if you need to attenuate, PM mee if you dont know the code to run diagnostics on your system

Look like its connector to a 2 / 3 way splitter to me.
 
thanks guys!, yes all i want to do is move the cable externally and re put through wall, i don't need to cut this cable, i was just wandering if the metal screw end came off so that i could poke it through the wall, as it doesn't have the grip on the metal end like some of the co-ax ends do?, so i assume i can just unscrew the wire from the little box, then unscrew the metal end from the cable, re attaching after i put it back through the wall, is that correct?
 
Hi Antimatter,

Worked for Telewest - Ntl for approx 10 years mate, its the top of a tratec isolator in the photo I'm pretty sure...
the 2 way spiltters aren't as wide as two main screw fittings in the housing and the 3 ways are too wide to fit in. the splitters also dont have the nylon washers between the main body and the screw top connector (f81). was saying that if you try to put an rg59 f on to rg6 cable you run the risk of cutting through the dialectric (white foam part) and getting the brading onto the centre core - in effect causing attenuation as you've said, but you would not be able to correct the levels without first correcting the f connector.

Cheers
 
Hi Antimatter,

Worked for Telewest - Ntl for approx 10 years mate, its the top of a tratec isolator in the photo I'm pretty sure...
the 2 way spiltters aren't as wide as two main screw fittings in the housing and the 3 ways are too wide to fit in. the splitters also dont have the nylon washers between the main body and the screw top connector (f81). was saying that if you try to put an rg59 f on to rg6 cable you run the risk of cutting through the dialectric (white foam part) and getting the brading onto the centre core - in effect causing attenuation as you've said, but you would not be able to correct the levels without first correcting the f connector.

Cheers
so can i unscrew the metal part off the end of the cable?
 
sorry looks like I posted at the same time as you, in answer to your question - no it doesn't unscrew from the cable, you can just cut it off but you will then need to prep/ strip the cable and use a new connector - prep tool (coax strippers) and connectors (rg6) - cheap at maplin or most electrical wholesalers
 
ok thanks, out of intrest how do they put the end on? especially if you can't take it off?, i also presume that this is a co ax caable then? and that the fibre optic is the cable that goes to the main box at the front of the house, this is then sent to my modem via a lenth of coax, is that right? do you have the link to the f type adaptor i need?
 
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You could also use a push fit F connector (from maplins a couple of quid) if you decide to cut, and extend it using coax which will have to be jointed to extend it to the modem or virgin media box its a bit suck it and see. Mayme preferable to Virgin doing the same for bucks.
 
push on connectors are p$£s poof, you get a better connection from a crimper but you dont need one, trust me, extend and use the connecters
 
Vauxfan,
What area are you in?
Antimatter, you are incorrect these type of connectors do not screw on they are crimped on with a special tool, and all vm would do is replace a non standard 'f' with the current spec'd one. (the one pictured is a PPC ex6, the ones previously used were snap and seal as indicated by novussparks, before that it was gilbert and originally it was a screw on type called an easy f)

You can cut it and re do the end with a new f type connector with no issues, you will not knock out the rest of your street etc, but if you don't get the connection right you may have blocking and freezing (as I stated earlier) due to low signal or a point of missmatch. (pom) on your tv.

stripper maplin code JH18U £12.99 will work fine, and as for the connectors if you want the same as is on there PM me and I will post you some, the tool to compress the end is not worth buying for the sake of 1 connector, I will pm you how to do it without the correct tool if you want.
 

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