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Because they have extra fluting as oppose to a spade bit you need a good drill as mentioned above that can be put into a low gear or a top end battery drill ... My 36v bosch sometimes struggles if the wood is anything but soft... can't knock the bit itself its just you need a decent drill if battery.
 
I use them with my mains powered makita angle drill, drilling through joists is a breeze. They pull thenselves through. You dont need to push.

I use the Irwin version, also with a Makita angle drill. You wonder about spending on a dedicated angle drill as it seems a bit of an indulgence. Then you use it on a job and curse the fact you didn't get one long before. Quicker, neater and much easier.
 
I use the Armeg wood beavers and just let the cordless drill do it's job, on slow speed. Sometimes have to remove the bit from the hole to clear the wood but it does the job easily enough.
I am also thinking about getting the Makita 350 (keyed chuck) angle drill. Any comments/recommendations on the angle drill?
Thanks.
 
...Can you imagine my disappointment when i found this thread title was about a drill bit...Anyway,that aside,the manufacturer recommends the nail-proof bits be driven by an impact driver.Seen the demo and used one myself,excellent tool,went through 6 or 7 100mm nails set 90 degrees to hole. Should sort out any stray 15mm pipes i would bet...
 
Pete, I have a set of wood beavers, the stubby ones, they are great. They do pull them self through the wood, good for drilling near holes in plastic too.

They are not cheap, but certainly worth the money and seem to keep going, I got mine two rewires ago and they got a lot of use drilling through joists, it made it a lot easier and quicker.

I think you can pay extra and get nail proof ones which may even be better.

Your drill can be verging on flat and it still manages to pull a hole through a joist just because oft the way it screws itself in. Sometimes though, you have to pull it out to remove some sawdust so that it doesn't clog.
 

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